OUT OF ASIA INTO EUROPE

The long journey in the _train de luxe_ from Irkutsk to St. Petersburg, especially the Siberian part of the journey, does not afford a great variety of scenery or incident. But, if somewhat monotonous, it is a pleasing and gentle monotony. There is not a mile of desert land in all the five thousand versts between Lake Baikal and the Atlantic, or, for that matter, between the Pacific and the Atlantic, by the way we have travelled.

There are no long stretches of sagebrush plain, such as Wyoming, Utah, and Nevada afford; no “bad lands,” such as are found in the Dakotas; no interminable stretches of wearisome, treeless prairies, such as the Canadian Pacific traverses in Manitoba and Assiniboia. There are occasional wide reaches of prairie or meadow land, but trees are always in sight, and for the most part the road passes through a heavily wooded country. Birches abound everywhere, with their graceful white boles, and there are many forests of pine and poplar. The trees in the vicinity of the railway are not large, the “monarchs of the forest,” if there ever were any, having been cut off at the advent of the railway.

The piles of cut wood by the railroad track impress the traveller with the boundlessness of the forests. Millions of cords of clean cut birch and pine, with scarcely a knot or a blemish, stand in neat piles waiting the insatiable engine.

Everywhere the land seems fertile, and, though but an infinitesimal part of it is cultivated, it would all reward the husbandman. Great flocks of sleek cattle roam over these natural pastures, but there is room for a hundred flocks where one roams to-day. And all this vast domain has been waiting for settlers at Europe’s back door during all the centuries. Only now is the door fairly open, and the new settlers are pouring through. America, meanwhile, has been discovered, opened, and occupied; Australia has been discovered and great cities built upon its seaboard; the tropics and the poles have been explored; and all the time a great fertile domain, vaster than all Europe, and separated from Europe’s swarming, overcrowded millions by no barrier of sea, and but a low mountain range, has been waiting, almost tenantless, for a people. But now Siberia has been discovered--discovered by the settler and the home-maker, as well as by the politician and the autocrat who desires a Botany Bay for his convicts--and a new and virgin empire that can afford asylum for the surplus population of two continents has been added to the world’s productive domains. Undoubtedly this enormous and almost untrodden empire gives Russia a great advantage among the nations of the world. Here is a vast new continent contiguous and near to ancient Russia, a domain which cannot be seriously threatened by any enemy, a domain which in the decrepit state of China requires no fleets or armies to protect. At length Russia has awakened to a sense of its value, and is pouring into it by the ten thousand every month the peaceful settlers who will make her possession secure.

Between Irkutsk and Moscow the railway passes through a few large towns of considerable importance. Chief of these are Crasnoiarsk, about seven hundred miles from Irkutsk; Taiga, some three hundred miles still nearer Europe; Omsk, about five hundred miles further west; and Tschelabinsk, which lies near the edge of Europe, two thousand miles from our starting point at Irkutsk.

These places will be but names to most of my readers, and they will not be much the wiser if I tell them such facts as that Omsk has forty thousand inhabitants and Tschelabinsk has fifteen thousand. All these towns, and many smaller ones that I might mention, are places of no little importance in the districts of which they are the centres, but they do not as yet cut much of a figure on the world’s maps. They all have the characteristics of frontier towns, are built largely of logs, but boast from one to twenty beautiful churches, which always strike the eye and give them a character and a beauty which they would sadly lack without the shining domes and brilliant crosses pointing heavenward.

Omsk is the most important place on the line of the railway between Irkutsk and Moscow, and is the residence of the governor-general of the province of the Steppes, and of a Greek Church archbishop.

Tomsk is a larger and more important place still, but is not directly on the Trans-Siberian route, being connected by a branch line at Taiga.

The road crosses many large rivers during these two thousand miles before it reaches the European frontier, and the cost of the great iron bridges which span them must have been enormous. They seem to be built in the most substantial manner, with piers and buttresses of massive cut stone. These rivers belong to the great systems of the Yenisei and the Obi, which in their upper reaches branch off into many streams, each of which, in any other continent, would be a notable and famous stream. But Siberia is so rich in great rivers that even the names of these mighty tributaries are not of great interest to the reading public. When Siberia shall come to her own and take her place among the great populous nations of the earth, these rivers will add enormously to her wealth and commerce.

On the evening of the fifth day from Irkutsk we went to bed in Asia, and woke up on the morning of the sixth day in Europe, and in the beautifully situated town of Zlatoost. We found ourselves also in the heart of the Urals, and the contrast with the flat plains of Siberia was most refreshing.

Lovely spruce-clad mountains towered above us on every side; a rushing river, which the track follows for many miles, seemed to beckon us on with its smiling ripples that glinted and glowed in the morning sun. Great, open, park-like valleys and uplands lay between the mountains, dotted with trees and covered with the greenest of grass, studded with beautiful flowers of every hue. Altogether, for many miles, the scene was one of rare loveliness, and was worth travelling a thousand weary versts to see.

The Russians call this region of the Urals the “Switzerland of Russia,” and though it lacks the grandeur of the snow-clad Alps, it has a beauty of its own which is exceedingly charming.

All day long our road wound through these charming scenes, up hill and down dale, usually keeping a rushing, sparkling river in view, until, towards the close of the long day, the great town of Oofa, with its beautiful churches and fine railway station, came in view. We had passed the barrier of the Urals, and the day of loveliest scenery in all the long journey had come to an end.

Our deliberate train mended its pace very considerably after getting into Europe, and, on the last three days of the journey, did almost as many versts as during the first five. The engineer actually seemed able to get by some small and insignificant stations without stopping, and where we did stop it was often for less than a full half-hour. We averaged fully twenty miles an hour after crossing the Urals, which seemed like lightning speed after our slow and toilsome way in Siberia.

On the seventh day of our journey from Irkutsk, the Urals had faded into the distance, and the flat plains of European Russia were substituted for the flat plains of Asiatic Russia. The country on both sides of the mountains looks much the same, except that the European plains are better cultivated and less wooded. They have evidently known the plowshare for many a hundred years, and in early July were smiling with luxuriant crops of wheat, and barley, and rye. Greater Russia plainly is in no danger this year of a wide-spread famine.

In some places hay-making had begun, and the great unfenced fields containing hundreds of acres were alive with haymakers in gay attire. The Russian farmers live together in villages, instead of in isolated farmhouses, as do our husbandmen, and the business of cutting and making a great communal hayfield was evidently an important matter that brought together all the men, women, and children of the village. Often forty hay-wagons, each with a span of horses and five times as many people, were assembled at the edge of a field. The mowers, in long rows, would then start for the other side of the great field, nearly a mile away, cutting a wide swath as they went, while fifty Russian Maud Mullers, in red and blue bodices, raked the meadows sweet with hay, which yesterday had been cut. They seemed merry and light-hearted about their task, and we could hear snatches of song and bursts of laughter, and many a bright bandanna was waved at the flying train.

The small villages did not strike me, as I saw them from the train, as being superior to the Siberian towns. They are built largely of logs, or of mud and wattle, and have low-browed thatch roofs, often much out of repair. But every village, however small and shabby, has a beautiful church, which contrasts strangely with the one-story thatch-roof huts that gather around it, as if a brood of very diminutive chickens were clustering around a big brooding mother hen.

The large towns which we passed, as we drew near to Moscow, were distinctly better built than in Siberia. Large blocks of brick and stone, wide streets, and a general air of thrift and prosperity seemed to pervade them. Samara is a city nobly situated on the banks of the Volga, and has really a regal appearance on her crown of hills, with her great cathedral and noble churches dominating all.

The railway crosses the Volga, a few miles after leaving Samara, by a splendid iron bridge, nearly a mile long. Even here, so far from its source, this greatest river of Europe is a majestic, swift-flowing stream, bearing upon its ample bosom great rafts from the pine forests near its source, and many great steamers, which carry passengers to the famous fair at Nijni-Novgorod, and other towns along its banks. Most, if not all of these steamers, use petroleum for fuel, brought from the great wells of Batoum, and huge tanks for the storage of oil begin to form conspicuous features of the landscape near every large town.

Indeed, our own locomotive, instead of gorging itself with birchwood, as its predecessors which drew the _train de luxe_ had done, took long deep draughts of crude kerosene oil, which, it must be said, did not improve its breath. Some of the engines I noticed at this end of the line were Baldwin locomotives, a make which I had not seen since we had left Khabaroffsk, on the further side of far Siberia.

On the eighth and last day of our journey on the “Siberian Special,” as our train was called in railroad nomenclature, we passed through the large and commanding town of Toula, a great railroad centre, and also famous for the splendor of its churches. The stations we passed on this day were finer than any we had yet seen, and were often embowered in trees until they looked like châteaus in lovely green parks. Peasant women stood on every platform with heaps of little wild strawberries, which they sold at a ridiculously cheap price, about two cents a quart. Others had the first red cherries of the season, and others yellow apples that had been kept in water for nearly a year, and that tasted as if baked. Other vendors of delicious, sparkling koumyss, milk, Russian kvass, and other more harmful beverages, also appeared upon the scene at many stations.

The devout character of the Russians was shown by the fact that every third-class waiting-room had its shrine, with beautifully framed pictures of Christ and the Madonna and some of the Eastern saints. Before these icons often burned ceremonial candles, and smaller candles were to be had by devotees for two or three kopeks apiece. Rapt travellers, with uplifted eyes, were often to be seen crossing themselves before these icons.

We still passed frequent trains of Siberian settlers, and others of brawny soldiers, “bearded like the pard,” and packed into their fifth and sixth-class cars like the proverbial sardines in their boxes. Occasionally a train of prisoners looked out through their iron gratings at us, seeming to cast a murky shadow on the pleasant landscape, as we thought of the dreary years of exile before them. We saw no political prisoners, however, and even the criminals are allowed to take their wives and children with them. These latter often clung to the iron bars with their faces close against them, like so many infant Charlotte Cordays. It must be said that these prisoners, like others whom we had seen, fared a good deal better in their railway accommodations than the emigrants or the soldiers.

More and more cultivated and attractive the beautiful country appeared as we approached Moscow, giving evidence in every smooth and fertile field of five hundred years of tillage, until at last, promptly on schedule time, 197 hours after leaving Irkutsk, the Siberian Special rolled into the beautiful station of sacred Moscow, and our long journey across all the Russias was practically finished. It is a matter of thirteen hours further to St. Petersburg, and two days more by the fastest train to London. Thence six or seven days more by one of the Atlantic liners to New York, and our journey by this new way around an old world was completed.

SOME FACTS AND FIGURES

As a multitude of friends and other correspondents have asked me to give full particulars concerning the time and cost of this journey, I will add a few lines to answer these natural inquiries.

I was told by the most sanguine, before starting, that the journey from Vladivostock to Moscow could be made in twenty-two days. I do not think that it ever was, or can be, made in that length of time, until the Trans-Baikal Railway is greatly improved, and the Amour and Shilka have a channel dredged through their shallows; and that will be many a long day yet.

As a matter of fact, the journey took us thirty-eight days, and, allowing for probable detentions by rail and river, it cannot often be made in less time. If it had not been for the kind personal interest of the governor of Vladivostock, we should have been much longer on the way than we were. I can well imagine that the trip might take three or four months instead of as many weeks. The exact time of the different divisions of our journey was as follows:

Days Vladivostock to Khabaroffsk (rail) 11⁄4 Khabaroffsk to Blagavestchensk (boat) 51⁄2 Waited for steamer at Blagavestchensk 2 Blagavestchensk to Stretinsk (boat) 121⁄2 Waited for train at Stretinsk 11⁄2 Stretinsk to Irkutsk (rail) 6 Waited for train at Irkutsk 1 Irkutsk to Moscow (rail) 81⁄2 Total 381⁄4

If we had found high water in the Amour, we might have saved three days on the river journey, and if the bridge on the Trans-Baikal road had not burned down so inopportunely, we might have saved two days more, but it is difficult to see how more than five or six days could have been saved by the most favoring combination of circumstances.

I also heard many absurd rumors of the cheapness of the journey across Siberia. One Russian official of note told me that the whole cost from Vladivostock to Moscow, first-class, meals included, would be one hundred and twenty roubles. I will give the fares as they actually were paid, leaving out the odd kopeks:

Roubles Vladivostock to Khabaroffsk 17 Khabaroffsk to Blagavestchensk 23 Blagavestchensk to Stretinsk 29 Stretinsk to Irkutsk 18 Irkutsk to Moscow 98 Total for fares (first-class) 183

To this must be added at least three roubles a day for living expenses along the road, even by those economically inclined who drink no strong liquors, which will add to the expense of a thirty-eight days’ journey one hundred and fourteen roubles, making the journey cost two hundred and ninety-six roubles, or, in round numbers, about one hundred and fifty dollars in gold--not expensive, to be sure, for a six-thousand-mile trip, but not so cheap as is usually thought.

Those who are willing to travel in second-class cars and steamer accommodations can save nearly one hundred roubles, or about fifty dollars, on the whole journey. The second-class cars are entirely comfortable, and very little poorer than the first-class, but the second cabin on the steamers is not to be recommended.

I have very often been asked whether I would advise others to take the journey. That all depends upon their circumstances and travel proclivities.

For good sailors who do not mind a long ocean voyage, the trip through the Suez Canal is certainly easier and more restful. For bad sailors and those who fear the sea for any reason--and their name is legion--the Trans-Siberian route offers many compensations. Moreover, if one can command his own time, and is in no great haste to reach his journey’s end at a fixed date, the Siberian journey will prove far more attractive than to those who are pressed with engagements and must make schedule time, for it is impossible to calculate exactly, or even within a fortnight, the time that may be taken. A pressing engagement in London, which I almost missed owing to the unexpected delays, detracted not a little from the comfort of the journey so far as I was concerned.

Nevertheless, in spite of the discomforts and delays, I am exceedingly glad to have taken the journey. It was an experience never to be forgotten, and furnished memory-pictures that will never fade. I should advise any one with plenty of time on his hands, who enjoys rail and river travel, and who is not afraid of the inevitable hardships of a new frontier country, to go and do likewise.

The journey I have described was made at a most fortunate time, immediately before the Chinese outbreak, which may change the face of the world, especially of the far Siberian world. A week later, or a fortnight later at the most, the journey would have been impossible for many months. But doubtless before my readers wish to take this new way round the old world the “Yellow Peril” will be overpassed, and the Trans-Siberian route will be once more open to the travelling public.

In these annals I have purposely omitted any extended reference to the commercial and political importance of the Trans-Siberian Railway, for the reading public has been flooded with speculations and facts, more or less accurate, on this subject. There seems, then, to be little need for their further exploitation. Moreover, history, during the next decade, will determine these matters much more accurately than the wisest prophet can forecast them to-day.

When the Eastern Chinese Railway, connecting with the Trans-Siberian road, is opened--if the Mongolians, who are showing such unexpected ferocity, ever allow it to be opened--it will be possible, perhaps, to go from Paris to Peking in two weeks, or, in time, even in eleven days, as Mr. A. R. Colquhoun, in his excellent book, _Overland to China_, points out.

Even then, there will be many who will desire to take the journey I have described through the lordly domain of Siberia, by rail and river from the Pacific to the Atlantic, which for vastness of extent along the same east and west parallels, for variety of primeval scenery, and for wideness of view over “this goodly frame, the earth,” will never be surpassed.

SIBERIA TO ST. PETERSBURG]

Synopsis of the Russian Alphabet

Form. | Proper sound. | Name. =======+=================+=============+============== А а | a _in_ f+a+ther | ah Б б | b _in_ +b+utter | bey В в | v _in_ +v+ein | vey Г г | g _in_ +g+one | ghey Д д | d _in_ +d+one | dey Е е | ye _in_ +y+et | yey Ж ж | z _in_ a+z+ure | zhey З з | z _in_ +z+one | zey И и | i _in_ s+i+ck | ee І і | i _in_ +i+ota | ee Й й | i _in_ o+i+l | ee s’krátkoy К к | k _in_ k+i+n | kah Л л | ll _in_ do+ll+ar | ell М м | m _in_ +m+an | emm Н н | n _in_ +n+ote | enn О о | o _in_ n+o+t | oh П п | p _in_ +p+it | pey Р р | rr _in_ hu+rr+y | airr С с | s _in_ +s+afe | ess Т т | t _in_ +t+urn | tey У у | oo _in_ m+oo+n | oo Ф ф | f _in_ f+i+ne | eff Х х | =ch= _in_ =Da+ch+= | khah Ц ц | ts _in_ wi+ts+ | tsey Ч ч | ch _in_ +ch+arm | chey Ш ш | sh _in_ +sh+ut | shah Щ щ | shtch _in_ sma+sht-ch+ina | shtchah Ъ ъ | _mute_ | _hard sign_ Ы ы | _approximately_ y _in_ pit+y+ | yairrwee Ь ь | _half mute_ | _soft sign_ Ѣ ѣ | ye _in_ y+e+t | yaht Э э | e _in_ m+e+t | a Ю ю | u _in_ +u+niform | you Я я | ya _in_ +y+ard | yah Ѳ ѳ | f _in_ +f+ine | feetah Ѵ ѵ | i _in_ s+i+ck | eezhitsa

SOME NECESSARY RUSSIAN WORDS

The following list of words, of course, does not pretend to be an English-Russian vocabulary, but simply the smallest possible number of words which a traveller would need in crossing Siberia. It would be well, of course, to know many more. But it would be possible for the traveller to make this journey with the limited means of communication with his fellow-travellers, restaurant-keepers, hotel-proprietors, train-men and steam-boat officials that are here put at his disposal. As it is impossible, of course, in a volume of this character to give anything like a complete vocabulary, I have thought that a very small fraction of a loaf was better than no bread, and that this was not one of the cases when a little knowledge (of Russian) was a dangerous thing.

Cardinal Numbers

одинъ, one. два, two. три, three. четыре, four. пять, five. шесть, six. семь, seven. восемь, eight. девять, nine. десять, ten.

English-Russian Vocabulary

Able (to be), быть въ состояніи. accident, несчастніе. act (to), дѣйствовать. address (direction), адресъ, надпись. adieu, прощай, прощайте. air, воздухъ. all, весь, вся, все. America, Америка. animal, животный. apartment, комната, квартира. apple, яблоко. April, апрѣль. as, какъ, такъ, такъ какъ. ask (to), спрашивать. August, августъ.

Bag, кошелекъ. baggage, багажъ. barber, цирюльникъ. bath, ванна. bed (bedstead), постель, кровать. bedroom, спальня. beefsteak, бифштексъ. bill (account), счетъ. boat, лодка. book, книга. bookseller, книгопродавецъ. boot, сапогъ, ботинка. box (coffer), сундукъ. bread, хлѣбъ. breakfast, завтракъ. business, дѣло. butter, масло (коровье). button, пуговиця. buy (to), покупать, купить.

Cab, дрожки. cabman, извощикъ. can (I), я могу. carriage, карета, телѣга. carry (to), носить, нести. chair, стулъ. chamber, комната. China, Китай. church, церковь. city, городъ. class, классъ, разрядъ. clean (to), чистить. clock (what o’--is it?), который часъ? clothing, одежда, платье. coachman, кучеръ. coffee, кофей. coffee-house, кофейня. copeck, копейка, (копѣйка). cost (to), стоить. cure (to), лѣчить.

Day, день. December, Декабрь. dentist, зубной врачъ. dinner, обѣдъ. dirty, грязний. dish, блюдо, кушаніе. do (to), дѣлать. doctor, врачъ, лѣкарь, докторъ. dress, пгатье.

Eat (to), ѣсть, кушать. egg, яйцо. engage (to), уговаривать. enough, долвольно. Europe, Европа. express-train, курьерскій поѣздъ.

Face, лицо. fact, дѣло. family, семейство. farmer, фермеръ. February, февраль. first (at), сперва. fish, рыба. flour, мука. flower, цвѣтъ, цвѣтокъ. foreign, иностранный. fork, вилка. fowl, курица. French, французскій. Friday, пятница, friend, пріятель, другъ. fur, шуба, мѣхъ.

Girl, дѣвочка. give(to), давать, дать. glass (drinking), стаканъ. glove, перчатка. gold, золото. good, добрый.

Half, половина, полу ... handkerchiefs, (носовой) платокъ. hat, шлапа, шапка. have (to), имѣть. here, здѣсь. hill, холмъ. horse, конь, лошадь. hot, жаркій, горячій. hotel, гостинница. hour, часъ. house, домъ, жилище. how much, сколько. hungry (to be--), быть голоднымъ.

Ice, ледъ. ill (sick), больной. important, важный. impossible, невозможный. inhabitant, житель, обитатель. ink, чернила. inn, гостинница. instantly, немедленно.

January, январь. journal, журналъ. July, Іюль. June, Іюнь.

Key, ключъ. knife, ножъ, ножикъ.

Lady, госпожа. lamp, лампа, лампада. landlord, хозяинъ. language, языкъ. lantern, фонарь. large, большой, широкій. letter, письмо. light, свѣтъ, сіяніе. linen, бѣлье. little (a), мало. lock, замокъ. lodging, квартира. lunch, закуска.

Mail, почта. man, человѣкъ; men, люди. many, многіе. map, карта. March, Мартъ. matter (no), бсе равно. May, Май. meat, мясо. mend (to), исправлять. mile, миля. milk, молоко. minute, минута. Monday, понедѣльникъ. money, деньги, монета. morning, утро. morrow (to), завтра. Moscow, Москва. mother, мать.

Name, имя. needle, иголка. never, никогда. news, новость, извѣстіе. newspaper, вѣдомость, газета. night, ночь. no, нѣетъ. noon, полдень. north, сѣверъ. November, ноябрь.

October, октябрь. overcoat, пальто.

Petersburg (Saint), (Санктъ) Петербургъ. pillow, подушка. plate, тарелка. please (if you--), пожалуйста. post-office, почтамтъ, почта. potato, картофель. promise (to), обѣщать. pronounce (to), произносить. province (Russ.), губернія. purse, кошелекъ. put (to), класть.

Quarter, четверть. quickly, скоро.

Railroad, railway, желѣзная дорога. railway-station, вокзалъ. rain, дождь. read (to), читать. refreshment, освѣженіе. registered (letter), заказное. repair (to), поправлять. rest (repose), отдыхъ. river, рѣка. road, дорога, путь. room, комната. Russia, Россія. Russian, Россіянинъ, русскій.

Salt, соль. Saturday, суббота. say (to), сказать, говорить. sea, море. September, сентябрь. sheet (bedlinen), простыня. Siberia, Сибирь. silver, серебро. soap, мыло. soup, супъ, похлебка. speak (to), говорить. spoon, ложка. stay (to), оставаться. steamboat, steamer, пароходъ. stocking, чулокъ, носокъ. stove, печь, печка. street, улица. sufficient, достаточный. sugar, сахаръ. Sunday, воскресенье. supper, ужинъ. sweep (to), мести.

Table, столъ. table-cloth, скатерть. talk (to), разговаривать. tea, чай. thank (to), благодарить. there is, вотъ. thirsty, жаждущій. Thursday, четвергъ. ticket, билетъ. towel, полотенце. trunk (coffer), сундукъ. Tuesday, вторникъ.

Vegetables, овощи.

Wagon, вагонъ, телѣга. wait (to), ждать, пожидать. waiter, служитель, человѣкъ. waiting-room, (станціонная) зала. waken (to), разбудить. walk (to), гулять, ходить. want (to), нуждаться, желать. wash (to), мыть, обмывать. washerwoman, прачка. washstand, рукомойникъ. water, вода. way, путь, дорога. Wednesday, среда. what, что; какой; то что. when, когда. wish (to), желать. woman, жена, женщина. wood (fuel), дрова. word, слово. work (to), работать. write (to), писать.

Yes, да.

THE END

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