Return to Tangier—Difficult task of English Representative—Obstacles to collecting information—Photographs—Ethnology—Berbers and Arabs—Bokhári—Moors—Further results of Mission—Conclusion.

_British Legation, Tangier, 26th May 1880._

His Excellency, unlike some of his colleagues, does not care to herald his return by the pomp and circumstance which attended his departure, so sent in the escort with its red standard, which has been carried in front of the column during all our wanderings, by a different route from the one we took. On the road we met some officers of the Sultan’s army on their way to the fighting near Wazan. We had seen their encampment of five bell tents about two miles from our own last night, but had thought they were tourists from Gibraltar being “personally conducted” into the desert by Hadj Kadór, the handsome Muhammed, or one of the numerous caterers to the untiring energy of English travellers. A few of the residents of Tangier had ridden out some distance to meet us, and many were the respectful salutations and cries of “Marhaba bík, Bashador,” which greeted the Envoy before we arrived once more at the door of the Legation. And now, though our Mission to the Court of Mulai Hassan has become a thing of the past, I think it will be long before all the strange sights we saw in this almost unknown land of Western Islam, and in its sacred towns, pass away from our recollections; nor shall we lightly forget the pleasant companionship which has existed among us for the last eight weeks. Our chief,—to whom the expedition has been by no means a holiday,—now returns to his former labour of Hercules in the way of watching over the affairs of Marocco in connection with England, and guarding the interests here of this unhappy empire, so highly favoured by God, and so cursed and depreciated by man. In no part of the world where England is represented is this task harder of accomplishment, nowhere are there more obstacles, in the way of jealousy, ignorance, and fanaticism, to be overcome. At the same time, it must be a satisfaction to the Government at home, and to the public interested in this country, to feel that, in the judgment of all who are competent to form an opinion, the duty could not have been placed in abler or more skilful hands.

Besides having had exceptional opportunities of seeing the interior of the empire, and studying the social and political condition of the people, we have performed our journey with a degree of comfort and safety which does not fall to the lot of the ordinary traveller. I do not know that we can boast of having added many archæological or geographical facts to those already collected by former travellers; but it must be remembered we were a formidable party in point of numbers, and our itinerary having been strictly laid down by the Sultan, we could not strike off into a new line for the sake of exploring the many places which lay about a day’s march from our route, even though they possessed exceptional historical interest. This was more especially to be regretted in the latter half of our journey, viz. from Rabât here, as the district is singularly rich in monuments of early Greek and Roman occupation. The most unexplored part of the country through which we passed was between Volubilis and Rabât; and though the blinding rain which then fell almost incessantly prevented our noting more than the actual direction of the march, while the close proximity of the Zemmúr and other dangerous tribes rendered it difficult to carry on investigations which took one at all off the track, I am not without hope that the modicum of information collected about this unknown region may prove of service to geographers.

The collection of photographs taken by “our artist” are in themselves most interesting, and but for the tiresome scruples of the natives against allowing themselves to be taken, some useful contribution towards the ethnology of the various tribes through which we passed might have been thus procured. To the ethnologist, indeed, a study of the different races settled in Marocco would be extremely interesting, as they would seem to be more clearly marked and separate here than in almost any country which has been subjected to so many invasions in former ages. The two most distinctive types seem to me to be those of the Brebbers or Berbers (whence the name Barbary), and the Arabs—distinct not only in appearance but in their habits and manner of life. We came upon the Berbers at Beni Aamer, Mikkès, the forest of Mamora, and in various villages along the coast; and there is said to be no doubt but that they are direct descendants of the people whom the Phœnicians, and later on the Romans, found in Marocco. The word Brebber or Berber signifies anything indigenous, and the race which bears the name seems to have intermarried very little with the Roman invaders, or with the Goths who followed them, and possesses to this day a more strongly-marked individuality than probably any other people in existence. Of their language, sometimes called “Shellah,” little is known. It is unlike Arabic, but is remotely allied to Coptic, which, with it, is classed by philologists among the languages called “Hamitic.” The group of servants opposite page 32 are of pure Berber extraction, while the villagers who appear in the photograph of Habassi opposite page 60 are all Arabs. Rohlfs tells us the Berbers are more civilisable and less bigoted than the Arabs, and that their women have more domestic influence, and are sometimes even allowed to inherit. Our experience of the race was not fortunate, as the Beni Mtír robbers who attacked our camp at Mikkès, and the Zemmúr who hunted us out of their country, were essentially of aboriginal or Berber extraction.

The history of the Arabs in Marocco, who are _par excellence_ dwellers in the plains, living in tents which they shift about at will, is of more recent date. When the great wave of Mussulman invasion came rolling westward in the end of the seventh century, the whole of this country was quickly overrun, and only that part of the aboriginal inhabitants which lived in the mountains remained unconquered; flying to their fastnesses in the hills, their pursuers were unable to follow them, and they now represent the remnant of the above-mentioned Brebber people. The Christianity introduced by the Romans at the close of their first occupation (about A.D. 430) was stamped out by the Arabs, since which time the country—correctly described as “the most religious in the world”—has remained, and is likely to remain, purely Mussulman. I fancy, however, that a Moor of the present day would as soon believe that Christianity was the religion of his country fourteen hundred years ago, as that the balloons and trains of Europe are really existent facts. Another great influx of Arabs occurred on their expulsion from Spain at the conquest of Granada in 1492. For seven centuries they had governed that vast province with vigour and success; and it is a known fact that in many families here are preserved the title-deeds of their Spanish possessions, to which the owners hope that some day they or their descendants may possibly return.

Another distinctive family is that of the Bokhári,[90] or black bondsmen of the Sultan, who, though only introduced two hundred years ago, form with their families a by no means unimportant part of the population. Some good specimens of these colonists are to be seen in the picture of the group of soldiers in the Sultan’s garden at Fez (opp. p. 103). The term Moor, though, of course, derived from the Maurusii and Mauri mentioned by Strabo and Pliny, seems to be generally applied now-a-days to all the three races above described, with perhaps a more special reference to the fusion of the three, which is found chiefly among the inhabitants of the towns. It is curious that, besides being able to trace the word Moor to such an early source, distinct equivalents exist in the Arabic of to-day for the names of several tribes mentioned by writers at the beginning of the Christian era. Of all these various ingredients of the population of Marocco, I think the Berber element the fairest-complexioned and best-looking, the Bokhári, the biggest-limbed and most powerful, while the Arab of the plain—of whom the Beni Hassan are an excellent type—is the most wiry and enduring-looking of the lot.

Of the Jew, as a factor in the population of this country, it is unnecessary to treat, as intermarriage between them and their Mussulman fellow-subjects is too rare to admit of its affecting in any way the national type. To the goodwill and sterling qualities of the two excellent representatives of this chosen people with whom we have been daily brought in contact, I have already borne a willing testimony, and I trust that, should my diary ever come into their hands, they will not take umbrage at the occasional substitution of their actual names for those of their prototypes in modern English literature.

In addition to the measures mentioned on p. 224 as about to be put in force, the other political results of the Mission (as I learned from a garrulous Court official at Fez), are the Revision of the Convention of Commerce and Navigation of 1856 between Great Britain and Marocco, and the establishment of diplomatic relations between the Sultans of Turkey and of this country; though how the conflicting claims of each of these potentates to be the head of the Mussulman religion are to be got over is not at present apparent. As soon, too, as sufficient money is forthcoming, the mole at Mogador is to be extended, and the ruins of the one here put in sufficient repair to facilitate the passage of boats to and from the ships. A better supply of water also is guaranteed for the town of Tangier, between which place and Gibraltar heliographic communication (under the auspices, I hope, on this side, of Síd Drís ben Abd-el-Wáhad) is to be established.

CONCLUSION.

My task is done, my last note made; and it is with no little regret that I bid farewell to the scenes I have endeavoured to describe, and to those who have been my companions for the last two months. A feeling of uneasiness also arises that individual merits may have been overlooked, and that those most worthy of praise have found but little in these pages. With what especial satisfaction above all would I have attempted, if words did not fail me, the grateful task of recording how much our pleasure and comfort were enhanced by the presence of those fair members of the Mission, who not only faced uncomplainingly the discomforts, and sometimes dangers, we had to encounter, but through wet and weary marches set us the example of cheerfulness and good humour, helping us to pass pleasantly many a tedious hour when time would otherwise have hung heavy on our hands. To them, and to our distinguished chief, our cordial thanks are due; and by the rest of my fellow-pilgrims, if I have left unsaid aught that should have found place here, I hope to be held excused, for in the case of a party amongst whom virtue so greatly abounded, it would be difficult to do justice to all, so the _mens conscia recti_ must be their reward for the present.

APPENDIX.

APPENDIX A. GENERAL LIST OF PLANTS collected in Tour from TANGIER to FEZ by Miss DRUMMOND HAY, 1880.

BY J. Ball, ESQ., F.R.S.

NOTE.—Species not hitherto published as Moroccan marked * (12 in number).

Ranunculus aquatilis, L. 10 miles south of Tangier.

R. chærophyllus, L. var. flabellatus. 20 miles south of Tangier.

R. palustris, L. var. macrophyllus. Between Azîla and Fez.

R. trilobus, Desf. 10 miles south of Tangier.

Nigella arvensis, L. var. North of Fez.

Delphinium pentagynum, Lam. Oued el Mikkès.

Papaver Rhœas, L. North of Fez.

Malcolmia lacera, DC. var. patula, Ball. Oued el Mikkès.

*Moricandia arvensis, DC. North of Fez.

Brassica —— ? 10 miles south of Tangier.

—— or Diplotaxis ? 10 miles south of Tangier.

Carrichtera Vellæ, DC. North of Fez.

Capsella bursa pastoris, Moench. Dar ben Oder.

Biscutella apula, L. North of Fez—Oued el Mikkès.

Raphanus raphanistrum, L. 20 miles south of Tangier.

Capparis spinosa, L. North of Fez.

*Astrocarpus sesamoides, DC. Khanat (or Khan el) Habassi.

Reseda alba, L. var. ad R. propinquam vergens. Dar ben Oder.

R. media, Lag. ? 30 miles south of Tangier.

R. luteola, L. ? South of Azîla.

Cistus Monspeliensis, L. South of Azîla.

Helianthemum Libanotis, Willd. 20 miles south of Tangier.

H. guttatum, Mill. var. South of Azîla.

Helianthemum guttatum, var. macrosepalum. 20 miles south of Tangier.

Fumaria glutinosa, Boiss. North of Fez.

Silene apetala, W. Khanat Habassi.

S. colorata, Poir. 30 miles south of Tangier.

Arenaria spathulata, Desf. South of Azîla—Khanat Habassi.

Spergula arvensis, L. 30 miles south of Tangier—Azîla.

Malope trifida, Cav. Dar ben Oder.

Lavatera cretica, L. 10 miles south of Tangier—Dar ben Oder.

Linum angustifolium, Huds. 20 miles south of Tangier.

Erodium cicutarium, L’Her. 10 miles south of Tangier—40 miles south of Tangier—Oued el Mikkès.

Ruta chalepensis, L. North of Fez.

Lupinus angustifolius, L. ? Oued el Mikkès.

L. luteus, L. 20 miles south of Tangier—Azîla.

L. hirsutus, L. 10 miles south of Tangier.

Cytisus ? North of Fez.

C. linifolius, L. Khanat Habassi.

Genista clavata, Poir. South of Azîla.

Ononis filicaulis, Salzm. Azîla.

O. Maweana, Ball, probably. Oued el Mikkès.

*O. psammophila Durien ined., most probably near O. Gibraltarica, but annual. Oued el Mikkès.

Melilotus sulcata, Desf. var. M. compactæ, Salzm. 10 miles south of Tangier.

Trifolium bracteatum, Schousb. North of Fez.

T. subterraneum, L. 10 miles south of Tangier—Khanat Habassi.

T. resupinatum, L. 10 miles south of Tangier.

Anthyllis tetraphylla, L. var. North of Fez. Dentibus calycinis longioribus.

Lotus hispidus, Desf. 10 miles south of Tangier.

Psoralea dentata, DC. North of Fez.

Astragalus hamosus, L. Azîla.

Scorpiurus—— ? North of Fez.

S. sulcata, L. ? 10 miles south of Tangier.

Ornithopus compressus, L. Khanat Habassi.

O. isthmocarpus, Coss. 30 miles south of Tangier.

Ornithopus isthmocarpus, Coss. Azîla.

Idem —— Oued el Mikkès.

Hedysarum capitatum, Deaf. North of Fez.

Vicia sativa, L. Khanat Habassi.

V. lutea, L. 10 miles south of Tangier.

Lathyrus ochrus, DC. South of Azîla.

*Sedum cæruleum, Vahl. North of Fez.

Cotyledon umbilicus, Sm. var. horizontalis, Lowe. North of Fez.

Bryonia dioica, Jacq. South of Azîla.

Ecbalium elaterium, Rich. North of Fez.

Eryngium triquetrum, Vahl. in statu juniori ? Dar ben Oder.

Œnanthe forsan, Œ. globulosa, L. Oued el Mikkès.

Idem —— ? North of Fez.

Thapsia garganica, L. South of Azîla.

Sherardia arvensis, L. North of Fez.

Galium tricorne, With. South of Azîla.

Centranthus Calcitrapa, L. Duf. Oued el Mikkès—North of Fez.

Fedia cornucopiæ, DC. South of Azîla.

Asperula arvensis, L. Oued el Mahazin. South of Azîla.

Bellis sylvestris, Cyr. Azîla.

Phagnalon saxatile, Cass. North of Fez.

Inula ? deest inflorescentia. North of Fez.

Odontospermum aquaticum, Neck. North of Fez.

Anacyclus clavatus var. = A. tomentosus. Oued el Mikkès.

A. radiatus, Lois. Dar ben Oder.

Anthemis fuscata, Brot. ? 10 miles south of Tangier.

Chrysanthemum coronarium. Azîla.

Calendula ? 10 miles south of Tangier.

Calendula ? South of Azîla.

Calendula ? Oued el Mikkès.

Carduus myriacanthus, Salzm. ? North of Fez.

Galactitis tomentosa, DC. 10 miles south of Tangier.

Cynara humilis, L. {Khanat el Habassi. {Oued el Mikkès.

Centaurea ? North of Fez.

C. pullata, L. South of Azîla.

Centaurea (desunt fl. and fr.) and C. polyacantha ? W. South of Azîla.

Cichorium Intybus, L. Khanat Habassi.

Rhagadiolus stellatus, W. South of Azîla.

Tolpis barbata, L. Oued el Mikkès.

Hypochæris radicata, L. var. Oued el Mikkès.

Tragopogon (desunt fl. and fr). South of Azîla.

Urospermum Dalechampii, Desf. {20 miles south of Tangier. {North of Fez.

Scorzonera undulata, Vahl. 20 miles south of Tangier.

Campanula Loeflingii, Brot. forma typica. Oued el Mikkès.

Campanulacea sine fl. and fr. ? Azîla.

Statice Thouinii, Viv. North of Fez.

S—— sinuata, L. North of Fez.

Armeria Gaditana, var. tingitana, Ball in Spic. Fl. Mar. 20 miles south of Tangier.

Anagallis linifolia, L. var. collina, Ball = A. collina, Schsb. forma latifolia. Khanat Habassi.

A. arvensis, L. var. latifolia {10 miles south of Tangier. {20 miles south of Tangier. {30 miles south of Tangier. {Dar ben Oder. {south of Azîla.

Erythræa Centaurium, Pers. var. suffruticosa. North of Fez.

Convolvulus undulatus, Cav. {Dar ben Oder. {Near Fez.

C. althæoides, L. {30 miles south of Tangier. {South of Azîla.

C. althæoides, L. var. integrifolia. Oued el Mikkès. Foliis etiam superioribus integris v. obscurè trilobatis.

C. althæoides, L. var. insignis. North of Fez. Fol. segm. linearia sericea.

Cuscuta an C. planiflora ? North of Fez.

*Triguera ambrosiaca {30 miles south of Tangier. {Khanat Habassi. {South of Azîla. {North of Fez.

Cynoglossum clandestinum, Desf. South of Azîla.

Idem —— ? South of Azîla.

Idem ? South of Azîla.

Anchusa italica, L. South of Azîla.

Nonnea phaneranthera, Viv. 20 miles south of Tangier.

Echium plantagineum, L. 10 miles south of Tangier.

E. sericeum, Vahl. North of Fez.

Idem var. strigosum. North of Fez.

Echium ? North of Fez.

Cerinthe major, L. 40 miles south of Tangier.

Linaria latifolia, Desf. South of Azîla.

Idem. North of Fez.

L. viscosa, Dum. Khanat Habassi.

L. reticulata, Desf.? Oued el Mikkès.

*L. Drummondiae, Nob. North of Fez.

Inter L. reflexum et L. taxiflorum media, à priori caulibus induratis ramosis floribus multis minoribus primo intuitu diversa. A novissimâ pedicellis reflexis, fol. dilatatis, &c., differt. Seminibus reniform. muricatis à duobus suprà nominatis differt.

L. bipartita, W. Azîla.

Antirrhinum Orontium {North of Fez. {Oued el Mikkès.

Anarrhinum pedatum, Desf. Dar ben Oder.

Eufragia viscosa, Benth. North of Fez.

*Phelipœa Reut. Orobanche ramosa. B. and Hf. Dar ben Oder.

Orobanche fœtida, forma minor? Oued el Mikkès.

Lavandula Stœchas, L. 20 miles south of Fez.

L. multifida, L. North of Fez.

Salvia clandestina (S. Verbenaca, var. præcox) Lge. 30 miles south of Tangier.

S. bicolor, var. calyce minus diviso. Khanat Habassi.

*? Salvia ad § Plethiosphace referenda spec. dubia an nova? North of Fez.

Cleonia lusitanica, L. North of Fez.

Calamintha menthæfolia, Hort. var. bœtica Nob. 40 miles south of Tangier. C. Bœtica, B. and Reut.

Stachys? indeterminable. North of Fez.

Stachys arvensis, L. Oued el Mikkès.

Prasium majus, L. North of Fez.

Ajuga Iva, Schreb. 10 miles south of Tangier.

Verbena supina, L. Dar ben Oder.

Plantago Psyllium, L. South of Azîla.

P. Coronopus, L. Azîla.

P. Coronopus? nisi fortè P. Loeflingii. 10 miles south of Tangier.

P. Coronopus, L.? forsan P. Loeflingii. Azîla.

P. serraria, L. 10 miles south of Tangier.

Corrigiola telephiifolia, Pourr. 30 miles south of Tangier.

Paronychia argentea, Sam. 20 miles south of Tangier.

Idem. 10 miles south of Tangier.

Idem. Khanat Habassi.

Loeflingia hispanica. Azîla.

Beta vulgaris, L. var. maritima, Moq. South of Azîla.

Emex spinosa, Campd. Dar ben Oder.

Rumex bucephalophorus, L. Azîla.

E. intermedius, DC. North of Fez.

R. thyrsoïdes, Desf. {40 miles south of Tangier. {10 miles south of Tangier.

Thymelæa virgata, Meisn. {Oued el Mikkès. {Dar ben Oder. {North of Fez.

Osyris lanceolata, Hochst and St. Azîla.

Aristolochia longa, L. North of Fez.

Mercurialis annua, L. {30 miles south of Tangier. {Oued el Mikkès.

Euphorbia pubescens, Vahl. North of Fez.

Orchis papilionacea, L. Oued el Mikkès.

O. tridentata, Scop. Oued el Mikkès.

*O. coriophora, L. Oued el Mikkès.

O. latifolia, L. var. Durandii, Ball = O. Durandii, Boiss, and Rent. Oued el Mikkès.

Serapias Lingua, L. North of Fez.

*S. longipetala, Ten. Fl. Nap. Prod. p. liii. (sub. Helleborine) videretis. Khanat Habassi.

S. cordigera, L. South of Azîla.

Ophrys apifera, Huds.? North of Fez.

Ophrys—spec. incertum forsan ad O. musciferam referendum.

*Gladiolus byzantinus, Gawl. 20 miles south of Tangier.

Xyphion filifolium, Klatt?? Oued el Mikkès.

Idem, var. intermedium, Baker? South of Azîla.

Leucojum trichophyllum, Schousb. Oued el Mikkès.

*Narcissus pachybulbus, Dur.? (Baker).

Alisma Plantago, L. 10 miles south of Tangier.

Potamogeton natans, L. Oued el Mikkès.

Muscari comosum, Mill. South of Azîla.

Scilla hemisphærica, Boiss. South of Azîla.

Ornithogalum orthophyllum, Ten. 10 miles south of Tangier.

O. umbellatum ——?? spec. nimis incompletum. 30 miles south of Tangier.

O. umbellatum? ad speciem nullam mihi cognitam referendum. Oued el Mikkès.

O. unifolium, Gawl. Oued el Mikkès.

Dipcadi serotinum, Medi. var. D. fulvum, Webb. 40 miles south of Tangier.

Allium nigrum, L. Oued el Mikkès.

Anthericum Liliago, L. Sidi el Yemáni. 40 miles south of Tangier.

Simethis planifolia, Gre. and Godr. {20 miles south of Tangier. {Azîla.

Smilax aspera, L. Azîla.

Phalaris paradoxa, L. Dar ben Oder.

Airopsis minuta, Desv. 10 miles south of Tangier.

Poa aurea, L.? 10 miles south of Tangier.

Cynosurus aureus, 10 miles south of Tangier.

Festuca myurus, L. var. sciuroides. Oued el Mikkès.

F. myurus, L. var.? North of Fez.

Bromus mollis, L. var. leiostachys? Dar ben Oder.

This list contains 168 species, besides 18 uncertain or indeterminable.

(S^{d.}) J. BALL.

APPENDIX B. TRANSLATION OF LETTER FROM KAÏD ALI TO LIEUT. HAYNES.

To our well-beloved, the excellent Chief, the distinguished Officer of the Royal Engineers.

After wishing you a complete salaam. There has reached us your letter, and with it a set of chess men, a present from you. May God bless you for it, and increase your welfare.

But we are in want of a good board which will be worthy of those beautiful chess men. When you arrive at London, send it to us.

May God bless you for it, and cause to continue your munificence.

Given 16 June 1297. ALI BEN EL ROSHDI.

May God be with you.

APPENDIX C. DISEASES OF MAROCCO.

Fevers, smallpox, eye diseases of every kind seem to be the chief complaints, always excepting syphilis, which has a deeper hold on the people of this country than, I should think, on those of almost any other; but were the land sufficiently civilised for such action, a Contagious Diseases Act of some kind might still be the salvation of the people. The misguided opponents of such a measure at home could hardly in Christian charity refuse their countenance to it here, in face of the suffering and misery which absence of legislative restrictions has brought upon this country. The Moors have little or no shame in the matter, and ignore entirely the iniquity of propagating their species under such conditions. They, however, entirely exonerate themselves and their country from all responsibility or blame, declaring the disease was brought into Marocco by the Jews who were driven out of Spain by Ferdinand of Castile. Leo Africanus, however, after asserting that it was unknown in Africa before, explains that, on the return of these Jews, “cœperunt miseri quidam ac sceleratissimi Œthiopes cum illorum mulieribus habere commercium, ac sic tandem velut per manus pestis hæc per totam so sparsit regionem; ita ut vix sit familia, quæ ab hoc malo remansit libera. Id autem sibi firmissimè atque indubitatè persuaserunt, ex Hispaniâ ad illos transmigrasse, quamobrem et illi morbo ab Hispaniâ, malum Hispanicum (ne nomine destitueretur) indiderunt.”[91] Considering that such was the case in his day—400 years ago—it is wonderful that, with nothing worthy the name of treatment to arrest its progress (the best remedy, according to Leo, is _change of air_ to Numidia or the Nigritarum regio!), the disease has not created more havoc even than it has.

APPENDIX D. EXTRACTS FROM MEMORANDA ON ARMY REFORM.

4. ... No official connected with army to enter into contracts for supplies, &c.

5. Draws up and recommends a system of schooling and training boys and soldiers, enabling latter after three years to return to their trades, provided efficient substitutes from school of boys be forthcoming.

7. Office of Commander-in-Chief, while held by a civilian, to be considered separate from Kaïd Maclean’s.

8. Points out the disadvantage of employing French infantry officers at Rabât, recommending at all events English words of command being adopted all through infantry.

APPENDIX E. SUBSTANCE OF REPORT ON SULTAN’S _’ASKÁR_ OR REGULAR INFANTRY.

1. ... The number of regiments inspected was fourteen. The total number of men, I should say, was 2000, besides 200 boys unfit to bear arms, and about 300 officers and supernumeraries.

2. The rifles—some of very ancient dates fitted with flint and steel—are, in their present condition, all unserviceable, except the Martini Henry, which seem in excellent order, but of which there were only sixty on parade. It is possible some of the American and other rifles of comparatively modern date might be put in repair by a competent armourer.

3. ... The clothing was of no particular pattern, and of inferior quality; the new clothing appears to be made of stuff which would stand very little wear and tear.

4. ... Only the English belts are serviceable.

5. The Moorish leather ammunition pouch seems good, but requires polish to preserve it from the weather. The foreign pouches, other than English, are unserviceable.

6. The Moorish leather bag would make a good haversack.

7. It was noticed that many men had no shoes, belts, bayonets, or frogs and scabbards for bayonets, and that the axe—the only tool carried by pioneers—was unserviceable.

RECOMMENDED.

_a._ Regiments to be numbered consecutively, and the numbers to be worked on their uniforms and colours.

_b._ Men to be forbidden to employ substitutes unless properly drilled and equipped.

_c._ That an annual course of musketry be established as soon as rifles capable of being fired are issued; it might be commenced with the sixty Martini-Henry rifles.

_d._ That a skilled armourer be attached to each regiment, also three pioneers, provided with axe, spade, and other tools.

_e._ Non-commissioned officers to have some distinctive dress, and remain permanently with their regiments.

_f._ No regiment to have more than one class of firearm, and colours not to be carried on the rifle.

_g._ For muzzle-loading rifles the native powder-flask, bullet, and cap-bag to be used. The breech-loading ammunition pouches are useless for this.

_h._ That out of the 2000 men inspected, two regiments be formed of, say, 700 each, with officers, non-commissioned officers, drummers, and pioneers complete. The remainder, unfit for service, to be disbanded, and boys to be trained for soldiers.

_i._ That a blanket be issued to each soldier when on active service, and that pipeclay for belts and slings, and blacking for pouches, be taken into use.

_N.B._—The Turkish infantry are armed with the Peabody-Martini, and get their ammunition from America; they carry a blanket on active service, and 120 rounds ammunition. They make their own boots out of raw hide, and carry on pack animals plenty of shovels, picks, and ammunition. Their cavalry are armed with Winchester repeating rifles.

From what I observed ... I am still of opinion that the system lately advocated by me, and communicated through Your Excellency to His Majesty, might be successfully carried out.

APPENDIX F. EXTRACTS FROM LETTER OF HIS EXCELLENCY SIR JOHN DRUMMOND HAY TO THE AUTHOR.

_Fez, 9th May 1880._

... I have been requested by the Sultan to convey to you His Majesty’s thanks for the able reports you have prepared at His Majesty’s desire regarding the body of _’Askár_ you inspected.... The Sultan has given orders that the regulations you have presented should be adopted.... His Majesty requests me to say that he trusts you will preserve the sword of honour which has been presented to you as a mark of His Majesty’s sense of the service you have rendered on this occasion, and of your visit to his Court.

APPENDIX G. SPECIMEN OF A “SHARÍFIAN LETTER” FROM THE SULTAN TO GOVERNOR OF MAZAGAN, DECEMBER 1879.

Praise to the one God!

Complaints have been addressed to the Sharífian Court, exalted of God, by the Jews of Mazagan, that thou dost ill-treat them, imprison, flog, and impose penalties on them in an unjust manner.

Governors who act thus do not follow the precepts of our religion.

Dost thou not know that on the day of the resurrection the unjust will have to answer before God for the acts of injustice they may have committed?

This is the word of God accepted by all creeds.

The Prophet—may God make our prayers acceptable through him—said, “Whosoever acts unjustly towards the Jew will be called to account on the day of resurrection.”

The Jews are our tributary subjects. We, therefore, order thee to cease from further persecution of the Jews, and to act with leniency and kindness towards them. May God assist thee in doing so.

APPENDIX H. INSCRIPTION ON STONE AT VOLUBILIS.

MEABIO LIILCI HROGAT OAN XVII UABIUS CRISTUS ... PATER FILIO PIISSIMO POS.

Copied on the spot, 13th May 1880. First line rather doubtful; dotted letters doubtful.

INDEX.

A

Addison, 30.

Ad Mercuri, 17.

Ain el Kibrit, 250.

Ain Sí Yúsuf, 250.

Aissowieh, the, 197.

Alarcos, battle of, 41.

Alcazar, 39, 267.

Algeria, 233.

Allarbi, 32, 42.

Alonzo of Castile, 41.

Amín, 210, 215, 218, 230.

Aquæ Dacicæ, 250.

Arab Scribe, 16, 121, 221, 285.

Army of Marocco, 100, 182, 184, 206, 209, 229. App. D, E.

Artillery, 9, 103, 120, 218, 229.

_’Askár_, 69, 213, 214. App. E, F.

Assistant, the, 142, 143.

Atlantic, the, 13, 265, 277.

Autololes, 266.

Awára, 13.

Azîla, 16, 21, 41, 281.

B

Bábú, the Bengali, 18.

Bairám, feast of, 198.

Ball, Mr. J., App. A.

Bastinado, 35, 244.

Bedawa, 203.

Bell, Mr., 194.

Ben Aouda, 49, 187, 189, 253.

Beni Aamer, 75, 99, 253, 290.

—— Chessen, 260.

—— Hassan, 59, 66, 71, 257, 262, 292.

—— Mtír, 93, 232, 290.

Ben Shittim, 16, 281.

Berber, or Brebber, 76, 85, 92, 258, 289, 290, 292.

Bleeding, 15, 125.

Boar-hunt, 18, 30.

Boke of the Gouernoure, 58.

Bokhári, 99, 116, 208, 239, 291, 292.

Books in Fez, 223.

Boomgheis, 31, 97, 130, 226, 262.

Braganza, Catherine of, 3.

Brooke, Sir A., 20.

Bustard, 263.

C

Chamberlain, 99, 110, 116.

Charles I., H.M., 266.

Charles II., H.M., 3.

Christians, 25, 218, 256, 268, 273, 277, 281.

Christian slaves, 170, 195, 240, 241, 266.

Cold, 35, 50, 238.

Colville, Captain, 31.

Commander-in-Chief, 142, 206, 218, 233. App. D.

Conference at Madrid, 4, 5, 177, 221, 225, 283.

D

Dance at Italian Legation, 7.

—— of Aissowieh, 200.

—— of Hillmen, 188, 230.

Dancing before the Ark, 188.

Dár Síd Abd-el-Káder ben bú Kaïb, 275.

Dshar, 17, 76.

Dúar, 17, 71, 75, 255, 263.

Duval, 227.

E

Edrisi, 41.

Eels, 275.

El Araish, 36, 45, 277.

El Bekri, 41, 270.

El Hamáya, 35.

El Karuin, 172, 224.

El Má Bared, 45.

El Úted, 21.

El Zerga, 276.

Emkaddem, 200, 201, 203.

Erckmann, le Capitaine, 103, 113, 140.

Ethnology, 289.

Eunuchs, 162, 193, 241.

“Eyebrow,” 122, 126, 144, 148, 191, 194.

F

Fahs er Rihán, 34.

Famine, 28, 184, 258.

Fasi, 97, 100, 125, 238.

Fez, description of, 108, 109, 124.

—— entry into, 98.

—— first view of, 95.

—— Governor or Bashaw of, 99, 126, 150, 206.

—— inns of, 211.

—— Merchants of, 101.

Foreign Office, 2.

Freigíah, 133, 195, 285.

Frost, Mr., 267.

G

George, 32, 226.

George III., H.M., 134.

Ghadda, 34.

Gibraltar authorities, 3.

Giralda, 269.

Gordon Cumming, Colonel, 16, 187, 196, 229.

Grand Vizier, 97, 106, 121, 126, 143, 161, 191, 214, 216.

Gualili, 250.

Guinea, 239.

H

Habassi, 51, 253, 274, 275, 290.

Hadd el Gharbía, 15, 19, 77.

Hadj Abdulla, 275.

—— Ali, 32.

—— Hamed, 26, 30, 32, 43, 95, 285.

—— Kadór, 9, 287.

Haïk, 16, 171.

Haïm Secsú, 5, 121, 220, 286.

Hájeb, 126, 148, 158, 213.

Hamído, 20, 31, 256.

Hanno, 73, 272.

Hay, Lady, 10, 12, 32.

—— Miss, 26, 84, 91, 151, 156, 164, 231, 249, 275.

Haynes, Lieut., C.E., R.E., 3, 10, 46, 132, 140, 209, 212, 252.

Heat, 19, 115, 279, 280.

Heavy rain, 44, 50, 57, 58, 71, 93, 235, 260.

Heliograph, 2, 6, 35, 122, 133, 139, 192, 239.

Henri III., 228.

Hesperides, 278.

Highland dress, 112, 114, 119.

Hondius, 250.

History of the Jews, Milman’s, 103.

Hooker, “Doctor,” 33, 97.

—— Sir Joseph, 26.

Horses, 10, 30, 134.

Hospitals, 211.

J

Jackson, 269.

Jebel el Kanúfa, 236.

Jebel Filfal, 72.

Jebel Zalag, 139, 239.

Jebeli, 119, 120, 218, 258.

Jesuit, 199.

Jesus, 65, 199.

Jewellery, 171.

Jews, 39, 72, 102, 176, 205, 225, 258, 278. App. G.

Judico, 18, 32, 47.

Jugglers, 196, 230.

Jum’a el Hawáfi, 69, 77.

Jupiter Tonans, 8.

K

Kaa er Remel, 8, 11, 286.

Kádi, 168, 181.

Kaïd Ali, 35, 46, 55, 64, 228, 232, 256, 279. App. B.

—— el Meshwa, 99, 111, 117, 126, 146.

—— Hadj Hamed, 135, 187.

—— Maclean, 100, 113, 128, 182, 206, 216. App. D.

—— of Artillery, 206.

—— of Habassi, 51, 61, 63, 65, 275.

Kariya ben Aouda, 49, 75.

—— el Abd-er-Rahman Shlíah, 255, 257.

—— el Habassi, 51, 75.

Kasr Fara’ún, 251.

Khalífa, 32, 139, 140, 164, 202.

Kheira, 75.

Kohl, 39, 40.

Kontra, 262, 273.

Koran, 20, 56, 125, 143, 145, 157, 168, 276.

Kúbba, 44, 76.

Kuskussú, 54, 131, 137.

Kutubia, 269.