RETURN TO FERNANDO PO.
My Christmas holidays were now done, and time was flying fast; the visit had been for a fortnight; it had lasted six weeks. After collecting some bouquets and pipe-sticks I apportioned the loads to the Krumen, who had been limping about camp like dogs on three legs, and looking as wretched as Lascars in the snows of London. By way of experiment Selim remarked audibly that the lame might stay till well with M. Mann, whilst the others returned to ‘Nanny Po.’ The effect was magical. Every back straightened; _jarrets tendus_ were the rule; there was a forgotten elasticity of gait and movement; one would have said they had been ‘gingered’ for the occasion. We laughed at them and _with_ them about their rascality. The African, whose paralysis of the moral sense seems to exceed that of the American, will always enjoy, if you do, the detection of a trick.
At 11·50 A.M., on Friday the last of January, 1862, after thirty-nine days from the 23rd December comfortably enough spent there, I left Spring Camp, and struck due north through the dense wood that flanked our late home. Taping delayed us till 3 P.M., and when we reached our nighting-place the Krumen had again been busy with the water: they were sent back to refill. In the evening I scaled Black Crater, ascertained that it was 7328 feet high, and was nearly swept from the summit by the furious wind. It afforded, however, a good view of the irregular group, the isolated masses above and around, especially Mount Eliza, one of the Three Sisters, which at the conjunction of the lava-field from above, and the forest clothing the mountain-flanks to the sea, was half above and half in the wood, the southern part and the crater being overgrown with dense trees. This comparatively open ground to the north would be highly advantageous for a settlement. Selim and I then revisited the little plain immediately below the volcanic platform, which had recommended itself to us as a sanitarium. The sharp wiry tussocks that covered the colder regions had here disappeared, and the continuous grass carpet promised a more genial temperature. Having visited the southern edge of the small plateau, where it bends towards the base of Little Camaroons, we retraced our steps with a profounder conviction of the capabilities of the spot. On return we found that the Krumen had built their fire and had pitched my waterproof tent on the ledge below Black Crater, where our first hard night in high latitudes had been passed. The wild easterly gale, dashing itself in little whirlwinds against the dark cone, and eddying round it in furious gusts, soon saved them the trouble of striking; and presently we found below a sheltered spot with a few trees, more proper for a bivouac. The bees swarmed, probably attracted by the moisture under the cinders and scoriæ. In these milder regions they are fiercer than at Spring Camp. ‘Where there are bees there is honey,’ says the Asiatic proverb. We sought, however, but we did not find.
Shortly after we had turned in the wind fell almost to a calm. Exactly at 7·29 P.M. a flash passed through the crystal sky, and we saw a fiery ball crossing the heavens from south to north, leaving behind it a brush of light like the tail of a comet. Remaining distinctly visible for half an hour, after which its luminosity faded before the young moon, it enabled me to measure its angle with a sextant, which gave 30° 20′. It was the only example of the meteors which attracted Dr. Brydone’s attention on Mount Etna.
We arose betimes on the next day; there was hard work before us. The dew was heavy in the ‘nest,’ and in the cool clear dawn the thermometer showed 46° (Fah.). Setting out at 6·30 A.M., we walked painfully over 2800 feet of the most rugged formation, broken and tossed about in chaotic masses, immediately at the vent of Black Crater. After passing the head of the fire current an easier descent began. We recounted six distinct ridges, breaks in the stream, with ‘drops’ sharper than elsewhere; but there may be sixty, if viewed from different points. In some places the torrent, strangled by its banks, was not more than 100 feet; then, with all the accidents of a river, it would widen to 100 yards. The heat overhead became painful, and the black charred wood and ashes under foot (the Krumen during their various journeys had burnt the bush) formed an excellent reflecting instrument. Lower down there were signs of rain in the soppiness of the soil; and the thick warm mists surging up from the caldron below rendered taking bearings anything but satisfactory. We crossed the stream, and rested at our old breakfasting place about 11 A.M. After boiling thermometers at Fern Gate, we bade adieu to the open fernery and plunged into the dense forest, bending to the S.S.E. The descent here was detestable: slides of clay, drops and falls, a cordage of llianas, and a network of tree-roots, made it longer than the ascent. It was 9·30 before we entered Mapanya.
Old Balmat and the valiant Botani—we called him Sángo á Lobángo, ‘Lord of Lies’—met us in the grass lane outside the settlement, and seemed not to know what countenance to assume. I had made up my mind to night there, but, singer-like, required no end of friendly pressing, which was duly administered. My consent was given coyly, and only on condition that provisions, fuel, and water should be supplied reasonably. There was an attempt to extract cloth by means of firewood from the Mokárá:[107] this, however, failed, and soon we saw at our feet a fowl, together with kokos and a large plantain-branch for the Krumen. The hut formerly occupied supplied us with ‘a refuge and a Bethel’ for the night. The air was cold, the hens would force their way to the wonted roosting-place, the hungry sandflies were unendurable to any but a pachyderm, and the bossy dirty floor caused hours of _insomnie_, which were devoted to eliminating the idea of a portable bed, chair, and table, all in one. It is offered gratis to travellers.[108]
On Sunday the 2nd February I left Mapanya early, escorted _honoris causâ_ by the chief Botani. Our pace was sharp, and after the sun had risen a spear’s length the air was something between the atmosphere of a Turkish bath and a London ballroom. The inhabitants of the several settlements on our way behaved very differently. Tátá, the chief of a little hamlet below Mapanya, actually ‘dashed’ me a fowl, which was carried off in triumph for Mrs. Saker at Victoria. At ‘Logo,’ a large clearing with nine huts near the Turu district, I found the Krumen, who had preceded us, standing with their loads at the edge of the bush. A fellow, armed with a musket and a sword, had levelled at them and caused the halt. His object was of course to make them cast their packs and fling themselves into the bush, under which circumstances the whole village would have turned out, and the matter would have become serious. By this time the Bakwiri had found out the Krumen to be perhaps greater cowards than themselves. They were, however, disappointed. My gang knew that the danger of being shot was problematical, but the punishment of desertion was certain. Selim and I travelled from that place to nearly the foot of the mountain with cocked revolvers; and whenever a naked gentleman began to execute a war-dance, or to raise any more than justifiable clamour, he was easily persuaded to ‘make himself scarce.’ There were greedy looks as the line of bundles defiled past the settlements, and I thought it necessary to make special arrangements for M. Mann’s safe descent.[109]
Near Logo we passed on the right a little hut neatly built of new bamboos, and the doors were adorned with inverted T’s of white chalk. It was probably a meeting-house or lodge for the Dyengo, an initiation like the Jengo of the Camaroons River, which admits the Konja, or free-born, of both sexes.
At 9·45 A.M. we made Bosumbo, where the drunken chief Myombi received us with a civility bordering upon servility. The water of the rivulet near this settlement was delicious after the moss-juice of Mapanya, which tainted even green tea. Resuming our march, we met in the lower slopes—it was market-day—long lines of women carrying on their backs and heads panniers and baskets of the produce of the bay, which had a very ancient and fish-like smell. The atmosphere of the forest became close and fœtid after the pure æther of the highlands; and the dense vegetation excluded even the searching ‘doctor,’ as the sea-breeze is called in these latitudes. The road was strewed with tonto, a red fruit eaten by monkeys, but not by Krumen. Thence we forded the little river, and at 2·30 P.M. we passed through the double palisade of tree-trunks which defends the new colony of Victoria Junior. My first steps were directed towards the Ethiopic Ocean, where, without the ceremony of disrobing, I walked straight in, compelling the Krumen to do the same.
Mrs. Saker, who would not leave the place till she had seen us all return ‘safe and sound,’ received me with her usual kindness, and provided us with a boat for the Camaroons River. I left Victoria on the 4th February, 1862, with a sigh.
Farewell, Camaroons! Farewell, beautiful heights! where so many calm and quiet days have sped without sandflies, or mosquitoes, or prickly heat. Adieu! happy rustic wilds! where I have spent so many pleasant weeks, even in West Africa. Adieu! and may adieu in this case bear all the significance of au revoir!
And now Victoria is shut in by the high hill-shoulders, the sentinel islands fade in the distance, the peaks wax more aërial, less earth- like,—
Majoresque cadunt altis de montibus umbræ;
whilst a huge purple mist, belted with a fantastic zone of fleecy white cloud, drops its mysterious curtain upon the scene of my latest adventure.
[Footnote 107: Mokara, plur. Bákárá, in the languages of this mountain and river means white man. May it not be the origin of the American negro’s Buckra man?]
[Footnote 108: Its form is this: two pieces of usual deal plank 4 feet × 2—the sleeper’s legs need no care—connected by hinges of canvas, which are better than leather in these humid lands, with a batten crosswise under each end to raise it from the ground, and a hollow wooden pillow at one extremity. Thus placed upon the floor it is chair and bed. When acting as table it stands upon a strong St. Andrew’s cross, turning on central pivots and capable of being lashed to the plank when on the road. Those who object to its hardness as a couch have only to try the salient points of an African hut floor.]
[Footnote 109: The botanist left Spring Camp for Ridge Camp on the 13th of February, and at the latter place spent four days, of which two from heavy rain were lost for collecting. On the 14th thunder lasted from 5 A.M. to 5 P.M., and ‘in the middle of the day it was so dark that the screech-owls and large bats left their hiding-places and announced their presence by their unpleasant cries.’ On the afternoon of the 17th, when descending, he met Messrs. Smith and Johnson, who had kindly ascertained that Botani had no unfriendly intentions. The next day he found Mapanya without trouble, reached Victoria at noon, left it on the 24th for Camaroons River, and returned to Fernando Po safely by the next steamer.]
CONCLUSION.
The preceding pages will, I believe, have convinced the reader that the Camaroons Mountain is, unlike Fernando Po, highly adapted for a colony of liberated Africans, and for the Sanitarium now urgently required by Lagos and the Bights.[110]
The means of preparing the country for human habitation are ready to our hands. From the 45,000 refugee negroes in Canada, an ever-increasing pauperdom, it would be easy and economical to raise 300 or 400 men with a suitable proportion of families. Instead of sending such persons by subscriptions to Yoruba, where, the ground being everywhere private property, they will meet with all disfavour, and where the climate is deadly, the emigrants can be settled, with equal benefit to themselves and to the white race, at Camaroons, whose native chiefs, few and far between, are ever ready to sell ground for reasonable sums.[111]
After long thinking upon the subject and consulting with others, I venture to lay down—not dogmatically it is hoped—the conditions of success in such an undertaking.
The classes preferred should be mechanics and artificers, lumberers and labourers; and even if a small sum per annum were given to each male by way of salary for the first year or two, the expenditure would not be wasted. But the best inducement would be a grant of land on the conditions that fair labour should be expended upon it, and that after the fifth year of residence and free tenure it should be liable to a small quit-rent for municipal purposes. The lots should not be extravagant, as they were in the old days of that Father of Failures, Sierra Leone. Three acres would suffice for a single man, five for husband and wife, and seven to ten for a family.
The healthiest season for landing in this part of Western Africa is about May, at the beginning of the rains. As this would entail enforced idleness for six months, the colonists might be brought to Victoria between June and September, and placed in hulks in Ambas Bay, with light preparatory work during favourable weather till early November, when the dries are set in, and the labours of bush-clearing and road-making might begin. Thus it would be possible to avoid the terrible sickness that destroyed the pioneers at Sierra Leone and Bulama, and which gave to those places a permanent bad name.
The colonists would require medical comforts and rations—rice and biscuit, beans and peas, salt pork and beef—for at least nine months: they would find fish in abundance and sometimes a few vegetables in the market. The superintendent should be furnished with a stock of cloth and knives, matchets and tobacco, to pay the natives of the country for service and supplies. Salt[112] should here, as throughout the Bights of Benin and Biafra, be made one of the great staples of trade. The sale of arms and ammunition and the purchase of slaves even for the purpose of manumission should be forbidden under pain of deportation. And there should be some limit to the introduction and the consumption of ardent spirits.
The first work to be done would be to secure shelter ashore. The mainland contains, as has been shown, stone and wood only too plentifully, whilst the sea offers coralline and madrepore for lime. But framehouses should be brought out from Europe or America, or there will be the same amount of sickness as that caused at Fernando Po by the refusal of the negroes to lodge the Spanish new-comers.
The best position, I have shown, for the first settlement would be Mondori Island, at the mouth of Ambas Bay. The second would be Mount Henry, about two hours’ walk N.N.E. of Victoria Mission Establishment,[113] and about 1000 feet high. The third and last would be the clear and grassy country about Black Crater, 5000 to 7000 feet above sea-level, and distant not more than ten miles. The great requisite at present is a corduroy road, practicable at all times of the year—the path is now a mass of swampy mud during the rainy season.
After erecting the first habitations, the bush would be cleared after the fashion of the aborigines, by cutting down the underwood and thinning the trees,[114] leaving the largest standing for shade and to break the force of the winds. Before the rains the clearings would be burned, and 400 acres roughly prepared for yam and koko, cassava and sweet potatoes, ground-nuts and Indian corn, bread-fruit and plantains, which produce after the first year. The palm-oil tree and the cocoa-nut are found growing wild in the lower altitudes; the only difficulty would be to protect them. European vegetables will thrive.[115] After a time cacao might be made a source of wealth to the colony, and prepare the way for tobacco, coffee, and sugar. Live stock could be purchased in small quantities for herding purposes from the people, or it might be sent from England. Bullocks are fine animals upon these mountains, goats are excellent, sheep are tolerable, and ‘the impure’ abound. Poultry and pigeons are easily reared. The highlands, above 7000 feet, are capable, as the footprints of large deer show, of becoming cattle-runs, and above that altitude they are admirable warrens, awaiting only rabbits. Asses and mules, when required for the sanitarium, could be procured at a moderate price from Tenerife.
Thus the colonists, leaving the bleak and barren north, would soon be enabled to dwell under their own roof-trees in their own land. It is methinks erroneously said that Africa, who sends forth streams of population, vetoes by the deadliness of her climate the reflux of the West upon the East. The experiment is, however, worth trying, under favourable circumstances, and the success of the native establishment would be followed by a sanitarium equal to that of the Mahabaleshwar or the Neilgherry Hills in Western India. The colonists would enjoy full religious liberty and the means of normal education: the head-quarters of the Camaroons Mission are within an easy day’s boating, and there are already two native teachers at Victoria. By degrees the mail-steamers would visit once a month the new settlement—it is directly in their way between the Calabar and Camaroons Rivers, whereas they must make a détour to the island of Fernando Po. And, finally, the coal-depôt and the consulate would be removed from the starving Cove of malarious Clarence to a place of health and plenty. With which I conclude.
A fin corona la obra.
[Footnote 110: During the winter of 1863 I was permitted by the ‘Times’ to show the advantages of Camaroons Mountain as a convict station, a Batavia, or a Loanda for English criminals. Here the place will be considered mainly with a view to a sanitarium.]
[Footnote 111: Above a certain altitude, certainly not exceeding 3500 out of 13,000 feet, the land is uninhabited and uncultivated; though claimed by King William of Bimbia, it can be bought for a nominal sum.]
[Footnote 112: It is the most licit article of African commerce, its use causes an additional and increasing demand, and it benefits the people instead of demoralizing them, as the gunpowder, the muskets, and the pestilent rum of the trade have ever done.]
[Footnote 113: This settlement should be surrounded by a deep ditch and a strong palisade like Capt. Phil. Beaver’s at Bulama. The best form of house is lumber upon stone pillars, which admit a free current of air under the inhabited rooms.]
[Footnote 114: The present expense of felling a large trunk is 18 pence. A small and moveable saw-mill worked by steam-engine or water-power would make plankage worth only the price of labour.]
[Footnote 115: The reader will conceive some idea of the Fernandian colonists when informed that there is not a kitchen garden—to say nothing of a flower garden—in the place. Selim, my factotum, found no difficulty in growing endive, onions, beans, cress, mustard, and a variety of European vegetables.]
* * * * * APPENDIX. * * * * *
APPENDIX I
* * * * *
MR. GRAZILHIER’S DESCRIPTION OF THE AMBOZES COUNTRY.
[Extracted from Barbot, A.D. 1678-1706.]
The territory of Ambozes, which I said before is situated between Rio del Rey and Rio Camarones, is very remarkable for the immense height of the mountains it has near the seashore, which the Spaniards call Alta- Tierra de Ambozi, and reckon them as high as the Peak of Teneriffe. The coast runs from Rio del Rey to south-east; the little river Camarones Pequeno[116] lies about five leagues from Rio del Rey; from it to Cape Camarones, the northern point of Rio Camarones Grande, the coast is low and woody—much more than it is from Little Camarones to Rio del Rey. This Little Camarones River is properly a branch of Great Camarones River,[117] and divides itself coming out from the latter into three branches, all three running through the lands of the Ambozes, into the Great Æthiopick Ocean; the principal of which, being the third river south-east of Rio del Rey, is called Old Camarones by the English. This third branch divides itself again into two other branches at a distance from each other, running to S.E. and S.S.E. into the Great Camaroon River; and thus with the ocean form three islands in the territory of the Ambozes, wherein are the highest mountains, which extend near to the north point or head of Great Camarones; and at west and south-west of Old Camarones River are three round islands off at sea, two or three leagues[118] from the main, as lofty and high land as the opposite Ambozes hills. These islands are called by the Portuguese Ilhas Ambozes; the channel betwixt them and the main is seven fathoms deep, though from some distance off at sea they seem to touch the opposite continent, which is properly the effect of the immense altitude of the hills on either side of the channel; so that the biggest first-rate may sail through it with safety, the tide there running as the wind sets. The most northern island of the three lies four leagues from the Pescaria or fishery of Rio del Rey, and the most southern of them five leagues to the north of Cape Camarones, being the highest land of them all, and the largest; the other, which is the smallest, lies betwixt the two former. Though these little islands look but like large lofty rocks at a distance, yet they swarm with people,[119] and are so fertile—especially in palm-wine and oil—that the soil produces enough to subsist the inhabitants. It is surprising to find there such abundance of palm- trees, when there is not one to be seen on the opposite continent.[120] The sea about the islands abounds in many sorts of good fish, which is of great advantage to the islanders. The road for trading-ships is east of the most southern island. The inhabitants, for the most part, understand Portuguese pretty well, but are the worst Blacks of all Guinea.[121] They form a sort of commonwealth of the three islands, making continual descents with their canoes on the territory of Ambozes on the main, and get from thence in their incursions a vast quantity of provisions, and have no other commerce with those people. The territory of Ambozes comprehends several villages on the west of Cape Camarones, amongst which are those of Cesgis, Bodi, and Bodiwa, where there is a little trade for slaves and for accory.[122] The Hollanders trade there most of all Europeans, and export slaves for the same sorts of goods they use to import at Rio del Rey. The Blacks there have the same names for numbers as those of Camarones—one is ‘mo;’ two, ‘ba;’ three, ‘melella;’ four, ‘meley;’ and five, ‘matau,’ &c.[123]
The country of Ambozes is very fertile in all the sorts of plants and fruits of Guinea, except palm-trees, of which not one is to be seen, as I have already hinted; and to supply the defect of palm-wine they make a liquor for their usual drink of a certain root called Gajanlas, boiled in water, which is not disagreeable, and is, besides, a remedy for the cholic. They have great stores of poultry and other eatable animals, for which reason many European ships take provisions and refreshments there.[124]
[Footnote 116: Now called the Bimbia River.—R. B.]
[Footnote 117: I doubt this, and believe them to have an independent origin.—R. B.s]
[Footnote 118: Read miles.—R. B.]
[Footnote 119: Now reduced to some 3000 souls.—R. B.]
[Footnote 120: All this is changed. There are more palm-trees on the continent than on the islands.—R. B.]
[Footnote 121: The same was said by Bosman of the poor timid Bubes of Fernando Po, and with equal justice.—R. B.]
[Footnote 122: Aggri or Popo beads?—R. B.]
[Footnote 123: In the Isubu or Camarones dialect one is eoko or yoko; five, bitanu, subject to an alliterative concord.—R. B.]
[Footnote 124: All this is also changed.—R. B.]
APPENDIX II.
MR. MERRICK’S TOUR IN WEST AFRICA.
[Extracted from the ‘Baptist Magazine’ for 1845.]
Mr. Merrick has lately visited the Camaroons Mountains, exploring a district of which very little was known, in order to ascertain facts respecting the state of the country and the condition of the inhabitants which might be of service in directing future operations. Believing that his account of his tour will be interesting to many of our readers, we abridge it but slightly:—
‘Early on Tuesday morning, the 23rd April, Smith and I left our abode for John King’s Town, from whence we started with our travelling-party at half-past six for the Bwengga market.[125] Our band consisted of eleven men and boys as attendants and carriers: Copper, my interpreter; John King, my principal guide; Smith, and myself.[126] We were to have walked all the way, but, at the request of John King, I agreed to go as far as the Bwengga market by sea, with the understanding that, if spared, we should return by land. The passage to the market lies through a creek a short distance from King William’s Town, in a north-westerly direction; and the market is called Bwengga, after the district in which the people reside whose goods are sold at the market. We arrived at nine o’clock, and met a number of people from Bimbia and its vicinity. Not many of the people had yet come down from the interior, but several of those who had, resorted to the canoe in which I sat, and gazed on me with wonder and amazement. At twenty minutes to eleven I heard a rush, and, looking round, saw the people coming down to the market in a body. They approached with a trot, and hastened down the cliff to the canoes for the purpose of bartering their goods. The chief article was plantains, which were brought down in conical baskets fastened to the back by means of strings round the arms and forehead. I need hardly say that women were the principal carriers. About 200 came to market, among whom there were not more than about 20 men who carried loads; and those who did, had a much smaller proportion than the women. The plantains were bartered for a few dried shrimps and fishes. Having disposed of their goods, the people came up the cliff about twenty minutes after eleven, and, resorting to the spot where I was sitting, viewed me with perfect amazement. The simplicity of their manner formed a striking contrast to the proud bearing and mien of the Camaroons and many of the Bimbia gentlemen. It was with great difficulty that I obtained silence, which being done, I made known in a few words the object of my intended visit to the interior. I had spoken only a few sentences when one of the gentlemen remarked that the majority of the people who had come to market were very ignorant, that it was useless for me to speak to them, and that I had better wait till I reached the Bwengga district, and then speak to the gentlemen, who would listen attentively to all I had to say. I replied that, if they were ignorant, the good word which I intended to speak would make them wise. As soon as the poor women heard this, they manifested their approbation by loud applause, and shortly after proceeded homeward, while I accompanied John King to his farm, which is in the vicinity of the Bwengga market. At a quarter after three our party left John King’s farm for the Bwengga district, and, after walking a short time along a track, reached the main road. This path—though walked over every five days by hundreds of people—is very narrow, and in many parts is a mere track. It runs for the most part through a thicket by which the clouds are frequently obscured, and as a walk is entirely devoid of interest. At five minutes before four we ascended a very steep hill, from which time the country became rather hilly. Five minutes after four we took a short rest, and proceeding on our journey ascended another steep hill at half-past four, from which we had a view of the sea, and, had it hot been for the mist, should, I understand, have seen Cape Camaroon.[127] At five o’clock we came in sight of a river, which John King informed me empties itself in the sea near his town. Here our whole party refreshed themselves with a good draught of water, which was very cool and pleasant. During our journey we passed two or three farms near the road, on which plantains are chiefly cultivated. I was informed by John King that a few people are living in the bush near the farms.
‘At six o’clock we arrived at a group of houses, called by John King a town, when I discovered that Bwengga was not a large town or city, as I had all along imagined, but a district or a sort of county, in which are many towns.[128] Our party sat down at this town to rest. Soon many of the children were around me, while some, afraid of a white face, remained at a distance with their eyes riveted on me.
‘After being regaled with a draught of palm-wine, our party proceeded onward, and, passing another town which consisted of four or five houses, arrived at our resting-place for the night at a quarter past six. The chief or master of this town is called Ebore, and, according to John King’s account, is his brother; but, during our journey, John claimed brotherhood to so many that it is difficult to say who are really related to him.[129] I, however, think that, if not his father’s or mother’s child, Ebore is a near kinsman. We met Ebore sitting on a stone near the door of his house, in conversation with one of his wives, who appears very fond of him, and for whom, I think, Ebore entertains much affection. Such reciprocal affection between husband and wife was to me very gratifying, as in my few short tours in Africa I have seldom seen it exhibited. The women are, for the most part, regarded and treated as the slaves of their husbands, who possess unlimited power over them, and do with them just what they please. When I was informed, on my arrival at Ebore’s town, that he was king of the place, I at first thought he was the ruler of the whole Bwengga district; but I soon discovered my mistake, and found that he was only king and ruler over his own wives and children. The mode of government in this part of Africa is strictly patriarchal. I was kindly received by Ebore, and, having seated myself near him, he began to expatiate on the great joy and pleasure which he experienced in being visited by a white man—an honour which he never expected, and which his father, though much more wealthy than he, never enjoyed. He admired also my fearlessness, and said that my heart must be very big, or I would never have come where a single white man had never before set foot. Shortly after my arrival I was saluted by the firing of muskets, not only at Ebore’s place, but at some distant town whose inhabitants must have concluded that I had arrived from the report of guns which they heard from Ebore’s town.
‘After dinner—which consisted of palm-oil and fish and plantains, of which I ate heartily after my unusually long walk—I addressed the people, and endeavoured to point out as plainly as I could the way of salvation by Christ. My auditors listened patiently for a long time, and while I spoke Ebore frequently exclaimed, “Toto—mene! toto—mene!”—“True! true!” When I alluded to the folly of trusting to charms for deliverance in times of danger, he remarked that what I said was quite correct, for several men who had received charms to preserve them from danger and death had, to his knowledge, been shot, and that God alone could protect and save. At the close of my address, I sang, “Jesus shall reign,” &c., and concluded with prayer. When I was ready to go to bed, I was conducted to a room about 10 feet long, 51⁄2 feet wide, and 7 feet high to the top of the roof. As my bed was placed across the room, my head lay against one side of the wall, while my feet reached the other side; yet I slept comfortably, and hope I felt grateful to God for having provided for me a shelter among the heathen.[130] Ebore accompanied me to the room, and remained while I read a portion of Scripture and prayed, and during prayer knelt down. On rising from my knees, I told him my reasons for reading the Word of God and praying to Him before retiring to rest. As I found Ebore disinclined to leave the room, I undressed myself before him. He was quite surprised at the number of garments I wore, and viewed me from head to foot till I got into bed.[131]
‘Wednesday, April 24.
‘As soon as the door of my room was opened this morning, Ebore came to pay his respects, and addressed me “Sanggwosu”—the term used by servants when speaking to their masters. Before breakfast I read and explained to Copper and John King, both of whom speak and understand English, the second chapter of Matthew. Ebore came in while I was reading, and heard from John King and Copper what I communicated to them. After explaining the Scriptures, I showed Ebore the views of our Jamaica chapels, and told him of the affection which the people of God in Jamaica entertained for the African race. He listened with much attention and astonishment when I told him of the vast sums of money subscribed by the Christian world for the benefit of Africa, and said that if the people of God did not love them they would never act in that manner.
‘After breakfast John King and Copper, Smith, and I, proceeded to the town of a man called Futa, and sometimes Madiba—a short distance to the south-east of Ebore’s place. On our arrival we learnt that he was not at home, but would soon return. I afterwards discovered that he was at the back part of his house, and directed John King to tell me he was out, intending while we walked a little way to dress himself. After a short walk to another town, where Mundere, the brother of Madiba, resides, we returned to Madiba’s house, when he made his appearance in a cloth round-jacket, a pretty wrapper, and a blue gossamer-hat. He was rather reserved and formal, but listened with attention to the truths which I declared. From the appearance and mien of Futa, I concluded that he was a man of influence and generally respected, and have since discovered that my conclusion was quite correct. Madiba’s town is situated on a beautiful plain on the top of a hill. One of his houses is a large one compared with the houses of the other chiefs, and is very well constructed. He is evidently an ingenious man, and with a little instruction would make an excellent carpenter.
‘While at Madiba’s house I tendered my hand to a man who refused to shake it, and, on inquiring the reason, learnt that the man had recently lost one of his relations, and that the people in the interior never shake hands with their dearest friends for a certain time after the death of a near relative. John King asked a question to-day which shows the necessity of explaining figurative language when employed in instructing the people. He inquired whether by giving the heart to God I meant a man was to cut out his heart. He next inquired whether God had a wife, and while I was speaking of the blessedness of Heaven, he asked how it could be a “good good” country when the people who lived there did not eat?[132] I explained to him that the spirit was not supported by food—that the body alone required food for its sustentation, and that after death the spirits of those who believed in Christ would live in the enjoyment of the knowledge and love of God. In returning to Ebore’s town we walked another way, and passed the town of an old man named Dume, who appeared very glad to see me. My soul was distressed when I thought that he would probably die before the Gospel could be fully and properly explained to him.
‘I saw several women at Ebore’s town engaged in making palm-oil to-day. The palm-nut, or fruit, is first boiled, after which the part which contains the oil is separated from the kernel, and rolled up in small balls, from which the oil is extracted by twisting it with the fingers. A great deal of oil is left in the husk, which, with suitable machinery, might be entirely extracted. We were to have proceeded on our journey to-day, but Ebore would not allow us to do so. In the evening I conversed again with the people about Christ and his salvation, when Ebore remarked that he believed God had sent me among them to teach them good things, and that he would willingly sit up all night to hear me. Before retiring to rest I made Ebore a present of cloth and other things, for which he expressed himself very grateful. Ebore is about forty years of age, of the middle stature, but appears short, in consequence of a bend in the back. His appearance is not calculated to command respect, but there is in him a great deal of real kindness, connected with humility, which cannot fail to excite the affections of those that may become acquainted with him. There is, I fear, but little firmness in his character, which would render him an unfit person to depend upon in times of trouble or danger.
‘Unlike Ebore, Futa seems a man of great firmness and decision of character. His manner and bearing, though the reverse of pride, are much calculated to call forth respect, and, with his property (for he is considered wealthy), will render him influential wherever he goes. Futa is about the same age as Ebore, perhaps a little older; of the middle stature, and rather slender, but well made.
‘Thursday, April 25.
‘We were to have proceeded this morning to the Sofo district, but yesterday evening we heard that an influential and wealthy old man in the Moriko district, named Manja, had made grand preparations for my reception, and sent to say he hoped I would not fail to call on him. As John King thought it prudent for us to visit Manja, we left for his place at twenty-five minutes after six this morning.
‘Shortly after leaving Ebore’s we passed three small towns, and crossed a small stream called Waugge, running from the west. Indeed, all the rivers which we saw and crossed in our journey flowed from the north- west. At a quarter after seven we crossed a beautiful stream about thirty yards wide, called Ben-yua, in which a large artificial basin was formed of stones, for the purpose of securing fishes. Our road at this point lay through a thick bush, and is evidently an unfrequented path. At fifteen minutes to eight we entered the Bore-pamba district, and passed Mbumbo’s town. Three minutes after eight we passed another stream, called the Ndunggu, and shortly after saw a small farm, on which maize, cocoa,[133] and peas were growing; passed the towns of Korame, Mukwure, Malape, and Monyunggo, and entered the Bakuku district; passed the town of Masu, and at five minutes after nine arrived at Manja’s town, in the Moriko district,[134] and seated myself under a tree, where old Manja in a short time came to see me. He was dressed in a large great-coat, which would have sat much better on a man twice his size. His hand was quite hidden by his large garment, so that when he presented it to me I had to shake his sleeve. I had not been seated long before I was informed that two gentlemen from Bwea,[135] one of the last districts on the way to the Camaroons Mountains, had come down to see me, having understood that I had come for the purpose of visiting the mountain. I exceedingly regretted that, whenever the people asked John King the object of my visit, he always informed them that I was going to the mountain, which led them to think I was in quest of treasures. Indeed John King himself did not believe that the sole object of my visit was to make known the Gospel of Salvation and find out the most eligible districts for establishing missionary stations.[136] After a few minutes’ conversation with Manja he left, but soon returned with a goat as a present. I directed John King to have it killed for our party, and began to declare the Gospel to the people who surrounded me; but they seemed more desirous to gaze upon me and make a noise than to listen to the solemn truths I was declaring. At breakfast I endeavoured again to engage the people’s attention, but could not get them to listen for any length of time. They were, however, quite delighted with an Isubu lesson, which I took with me for the purpose of teaching the children as I passed along, and were exceedingly astonished when I exhibited my watch.
‘Many people from other districts resorted to Manja’s place to see me; some, I learn, from a distance, to whom I explained the object of my visit. In the afternoon Copper and I walked to the town of Junge, a short distance west of Manja’s place, where I conversed for some time about the Great Salvation, and instructed the people from my Isubu lesson. They called my watch the moon, and said I was indeed a God-man, for I had gone up to God, and brought down the moon with me. On my return from Junge’s place Smith and I took a long walk, and spent a sweet season in conversation about the universal dominion of Christ. Since my arrival in Africa, nothing administers more joy to my soul than reflection or conversation respecting the entire subjugation of the nations of the earth to our Divine Redeemer. Indeed, if missionaries would be strengthened for their work, they must at all times keep the cheering truth before their minds. John King informed me this afternoon that the men who came from the Bwea district said they would not conduct me to the town without being well paid; but on finding that I evinced no anxiety for going thither they left, with promise of meeting me at Manja’s town early in the morning. African travellers must pay little attention to the talk and noise of the people, but act with kindness, firmness, prudence, and justice. Before going to bed I made old Manja a present of cloth, &c., with which he was quite pleased. I also distributed some needles among the women and girls, and clothed three of Manja’s children, who were not a little delighted with their new garb.
‘Both at Ebore’s and Manja’s place I distributed some English peas, which were kindly sent me by the St. Albans friends. When at Camaroons I also distributed some of the same peas, and have no doubt that by this time many of the Diwalla people have reaped a crop.[137]
‘Friday, April 26.
‘We were to have left Manja’s town early this morning, but were detained by heavy rains till twelve o’clock, when we proceeded on our journey. At twenty-five minutes after twelve we entered the Bokwei district, and at the same time passed the town of Mamunde. Shortly after we passed Morio’s town. At one o’clock the country became very hilly. We arrived at Dickenye’s town at half-past one, which is situated in the Bwea district. I was kindly received by Dickenye, who appeared very happy to see me, and, like Ebore, dwelt for a long time on the great honour bestowed on him by the visit of a white man. I, however, soon discovered that great suspicions were entertained respecting my intended visit to the mountain; and John King, in order to learn the real object of my visit, took Smith aside, and questioned him closely on the subject. Shortly after my arrival Dickenye told John King that there were immense treasures on the mountain; that on the death of any influential person in the Bwea district they had frequently seen cloths of every description spread out on the mountain; that there was a great deal of gunpowder, salt, and dollars on the mountain;[138] and they thanked John King for bringing me to show them how to obtain the treasures. There was also a “large water” on the mountain, where a white man was often seen, and which no black man could pass; that they sometimes heard the report of guns fired by the white man; that that white was my brother, and I had come to see him and fetch him down from the mountain.
‘In vain I endeavoured to persuade them that the sole object of my visit was to impart the knowledge of the true God, and to learn whether they were willing to receive religious teachers. During the day I embraced every opportunity of declaring the Gospel, but, like those of Manja’s town, the Bwea people were more desirous to sing and dance and make a noise than attend to what I had to say. In the afternoon several chiefs came to see me. After they had listened to the truth a short time, Dickenye, who is an incessant talker, began to address the people, after which he danced about, and endeavoured to appear very great. He was followed by another man, who wore a sort of tippet made by himself. He also delivered an address, and, like Dickenye, danced and sung, and capered about amidst the applause of the surrounding multitude. As evening approached, John King informed me that all the gentlemen of the district were to assemble after dark, in order to come to some decision respecting the charge they were to make for allowing me to visit the mountain. Accordingly we had a meeting in one of Dickenye’s houses in the evening, when all the gentlemen strenuously maintained that there were incalculable treasures on the mountain, and that John King had brought me to obtain them. I replied that many of them would on the morrow accompany me to the mountain, and would have an opportunity of seeing all it contained, and that whatever I might bring down they were at perfect liberty to retain. During my short life I have met many great talkers, but never before heard so garrulous a man as Dickenye. He seems never tired of chatting, and will scarcely allow any one else to speak a word. None but those who have been engaged in an African palaver[139] can form a correct idea of its tediousness. When you imagine that the subject in debate has been brought to a close and about to be settled, all on a sudden you find yourself at the point from whence you started, and the objections which you had before answered, again brought forward as if they were entirely new. This was the ordeal through which I had to pass at Dickenye’s place; and what rendered it more trying was my ignorance of the language, and consequent dependence on John King and Copper for an interpretation of all that was said. The palaver being closed, I returned to rest, after commending myself and our party to the Divine protection, and as usual slept well.
‘Saturday, April 27.
‘We were to have started before daylight, but could not manage to get away before fifteen minutes before seven. It is very difficult to get an uncivilized African band to travel early. On my arrival at Dickenye’s I was informed that his town was the nearest to the mountain in the Bwea district, and I discovered this morning that my information was not correct. Shortly after leaving Dickenye’s we passed three towns, all near each other, and arrived at the last town on the way to the mountain at a quarter after seven. At this time we saw a road to the south, which I was informed leads to Rumby. At fifteen minutes to eight we arrived at a river flowing from the north-west, in a south-westerly direction. At this point there was a sensible change in the atmosphere. I drank of the water of the river, whose bed was very rocky, and found it delightfully cool. Near the river is a small abandoned farm, which was formerly cultivated by some of the Bwea people. Before visiting the interior I thought the people spent a great deal of their time in agricultural pursuits, but was surprised during my journey to see so few farms, and those so much neglected. All the plantain-farms I saw were covered with grass and bush. Like those on the coast, the people in the country live a life of almost absolute idleness. They do not set the smallest value on time, and prefer spending days and weeks in hunting (though they not unfrequently return home as empty as they went out) to cultivating the soil. May they soon come under the influence of that Gospel which so strongly condemns idleness, and inculcates the necessity of industrious habits! But to resume our narrative. At eight o’clock the Bwea men who had accompanied me stopped to perform a ceremony called Mosere.[140] Dickenye’s brother Bunggome, with a mug of water in his hand, delivered an address to the following effect:—“That the Moriko and Bwengga men were unwilling that the Bwea people should engage in trade with Bimbia, but that John King had kindly brought a white man to see them, who he hoped would open a communication between the coast and the Bwea district.” After the address a libation was poured out on the ground, and the remainder of the water in the mug drank by all who had engaged in the ceremony. I requested John King to say to them that the good word which I had spoken to them was calculated to unite all people in one common bond; and if they and the Moriko and Bwengga people attended to it, instead of opposing each other in trade, they would live as brethren, and do all in their power to promote the welfare of one another. They appeared quite pleased with my remarks, and proceeded on the journey with smiling countenances.
‘A few minutes before the Mosere ceremony was performed we crossed a fine stream, whose water was very cold. At twenty minutes before ten we arrived at another river-course, destitute of water, except a small portion (rain-water, I suppose) in hollows of rocks, and which reminded me of the pools of rain-water from which the Israelites were wont to refresh themselves in their journeys to the Holy City. Our whole party took a long draught of water here, as we were given to understand that we should meet with no more during the remainder of our journey. Ten minutes before ten we had an excellent view of the sea. Perhaps it is necessary to observe that the whole district through which we passed is very well furnished with hard wood. The wood is so hard that the Bwea men, not possessing proper axes, are unable to fell the trees for the purpose of making farms. Eight minutes after ten we passed the last farm of the Bwea people on the way to the Camaroons Mountains. On this farm is growing the finest piece of cocoa I have seen since my arrival in Africa. I was rather surprised that the Bwea people should cultivate farms so far from their towns, and thought they must have good reason for doing so; and on inquiry found that they were in the habit of spending whole weeks in the woods hunting the ngika, or buffalo, and during that time cultivated the soil in the vicinity of the chase. Twenty-five minutes before eleven the brother of Dickenye, perceiving that we were drawing near the mountain, broke a small bush, and, holding it in his hand, prayed aloud to his dead father and mother to protect him from danger in approaching the mountain. I directed John King to tell him that Obassa Luba[141] (the name by which the Deity is called) alone could afford him help, and that his petitions should have been presented to him. On hearing this he began to cry to Obassa Luba for help. The evident fear of the people as they drew near the mountain led me to conclude that they had never before travelled so far, though they wished to make me believe that many of them had before ascended the mountain. At twenty minutes before eleven, we arrived at a beautiful plain extending along the base of the mountain a considerable way. This plain is covered with a fine wing-grass, some of which I brought down as a memorial of my visit. A quarter before eleven we had an extensive and splendid view of the sea, rivers, and lowlands from the plain at the base of the mountain. We saw very distinctly Balimba point and river, and a little eastward the Bakuku, Munggo, and Bunji rivers and country.[142] At ten minutes after eleven our band sat down on the grassy plain to hold a consultation as to whether they should ascend the mountain, at whose height and majestic aspect they were manifestly alarmed. While with wonder and awe they gazed upon the grand and lofty fabric, Smith observed that, if they were so alarmed at beholding the works of the Almighty, what would be the state of their mind when they beheld the Almighty himself on the Judgment-day? John King, who had all along spoken of his determination to go to the very apex of the mountain, declared that he could not proceed further; while the Bwea men said it was useless to accompany me if no treasures were to be obtained. I reminded them that I had agreed to pay them to go with me, and, if they broke their engagement, they could not expect payment. At length ten of the Bwea men made up their minds to accompany me, and with Smith, Copper, and myself, started for the much-dreaded Munggo,[143] as the mountain is called in the Isubu tongue. With much difficulty we ascended about a third of the mountain at six minutes after one, where it was so cold that I judged it unwise to proceed higher with men who had only a piece of cloth around their loins. This, with other reasons, induced me to descend the mountain before reaching its apex, though I must confess I did so very reluctantly. At the elevation on which I stood I experienced all the sensations produced by an English winter. My nostrils ran copiously, my eyes were much affected, and my fingers stiff. The faces of my attendants were covered with a sort of white incrustation, such as may be seen on the skins of black men in England during winter. Their eyes were also much affected, and Dickenye’s brother had a fit of ague, and trembled like an aspen-leaf. The mountain after a certain height (perhaps from about the sixth of its altitude from the base) is entirely covered with a fine and beautifully green grass, with here and there a few shrubs. The soil is composed of small pieces of soft stone, which have evidently been subject to the action of fire, and which frequently crumbled or resigned their places as the weight of our bodies rested upon them in ascending. From the point on which we stood we had an excellent view of the lowlands and the different rivers in the Bight of Biafra. We began to descend the mountain about a quarter after one, and arrived at the grassy plain at ten minutes before three, from whence, though much fatigued, we immediately proceeded homeward. When we had nearly reached our resting- place the Bwea men assembled, and agreed to tell the people on their arrival that there were immense treasures on the mountain, but that I had resolved on not taking them till my return, when I would bring another white man with me. On hearing this I requested John King to undeceive the people, and let them know the truth. At fifteen minutes after five we arrived at the last town on the way to the mountain, and eight minutes after six reached Dickenye’s town, our resting-place. In returning the Bwea men sang the greater part of the way, and seemed very glad that no harm had befallen them on their way to the mountain. One of their songs was to the following effect:—“The white man cut down the grass,[144] and told it to stand up. The grass replied, How can I stand? you have cut me down.” My feet ached so much at my long and difficult journey that I could hardly stir, but a good night’s rest refreshed my wearied frame, and rendered me strong again for duty.
‘Lord’s day, April 28.
‘I spent a pleasant time this morning in instructing several children and young people from my Isubu lesson. They exhibited considerable pleasure in spelling the words of their language, and, though they spent more than a quarter of an hour at their lesson, did not appear tired. Finding that the adult people were more inclined to drum and dance than listen to the Gospel, I left Dickenye’s town after breakfast and, accompanied by John King, went to see a very old man named Ibungge, who had been sick for a long time, and intelligence of whose death arrived at Bimbia a few days ago. I endeavoured to preach salvation by Christ to him and his people, but fear the old man did not comprehend what was said to him. I saw a woman this morning with her face besmeared with dirt, and a band of the fibre of the plantain-tree round her forehead, which I learn is the usual badge of mourning of the people of the district. The Bimbia women do not wear the band round their foreheads, but besmear their faces for several months with a mixture of dirt, lampblack, and palm-oil.
‘About two o’clock to-day a man from the Boba[145] district came to see me, and listened very attentively to the truths which I declared to him. Dickenye introduced him to me, and sat for a short time. I had not, however, spoken long before he began to interrupt me; but finding that I would not attend to him, and was determined to go on conversing with the Boba man, he left the hut, and called away his friend, but he would not go. As the Boba man defended the practice of polygamy, I dwelt much on the evils of it, and assured him it was very offensive to God. After the departure of the poor man I learnt that he had recently shot a man for seducing one of his wives, and had in consequence to desert his house, and hide himself in the woods. According to a rule or law, called Dibumbe, every man from Bimbia to the Camaroons Mountains, and also on the Mungo and Bunge rivers, and I believe at other places, who commits murder, is given up by his townspeople to be hanged.[146] While speaking to the Boba man, little did I think I was pointing out the evils of the very sin which had compelled him to leave the few comforts of his home to wander in the woods.
‘As in South Africa, there are men in the Bwea district and in other parts of the country who profess to be able to produce rain. John King firmly believes in the pretended power of the rain-makers, and strenuously maintained that they did possess the power, notwithstanding all I could say to convince him to the contrary.
‘I understood this afternoon that the chief men of Bwea, and especially Dickenye, are entertaining large expectations respecting the presents they are to receive before my departure. They told John King that he, King William, Dick Merchant, and the other traders of Bimbia, had received large presents to allow me to visit the interior, and now I had seen their mountain, John King did not wish me to give them anything. The covetousness of the people is exceedingly trying and distressing, and, with vainglory, exhibits itself in almost every word and action. Oh that the time may speedily come when their selfishness will be subdued, and their hearts renovated by the Divine Spirit!
‘About three o’clock Smith and I sang a hymn, read a portion of Scripture, and engaged in prayer, in which we specially implored the Lord to visit the dark places of the earth with the light of His glorious Gospel. Smith and I conversed much with Copper to-day about the necessity of a change of heart. It is very gratifying to me to be able to state that light seems gradually shining upon this man’s mind. He has already abandoned a few of his country practices, and will, I hope, be given to us as the first-fruit of our labours. When I resolved on visiting the Camaroons Mountains, I fully expected difficulties in the way. True, I did not entertain the slightest apprehensions of personal danger, yet I by no means imagined that my path would be a smooth one. Indeed from the day of my arrival at Bwea, I plainly foresaw that we should meet with opposition before our departure. It was not to be expected that Satan would sit quietly and see one of his strongholds attacked without retaliation. But greater is He that is for us than they who are against us. The prey of the enemy will yet be plucked from his teeth, and the kingdom of Christ established where Satan’s empire now raises its proud and lofty head.
‘Monday, April 29.
‘I arose unusually early on Monday morning, and spent a sweet season in prayer. My soul was much drawn out in behalf of the heathens in general, but more particularly for Africa. I felt, while supplicating the Mercy- seat, that the Lord was preparing my mind and strengthening my spirit for some trial. When our baggage had been packed up, and we were ready to leave, I presented Dickenye and three of the chief men at Bwea with cloth, garments, and other things; but they were quite dissatisfied, and said they would not allow our boxes to be taken away unless I gave them more cloth. I knew well that, if I yielded to their unjust exaction, instead of being satisfied, they would be encouraged to make other demands, and consequently declined giving anything else. On hearing this they made a great noise, and seemed determined to detain us. Several of the men were armed with cutlasses, and during the palaver flourished them about (not however in a threatening manner), but the Lord graciously preserved me from fear, and kept my mind in perfect peace. Oh what a blessedness to be able to rest on the arms of Him who is powerful to save! Not one of our party had a weapon of any description. On leaving Bimbia, I strictly enjoined John King not to carry guns, swords, or cutlasses, assuring him that God, whom I loved and served, and whose truth I was going to declare, would protect and preserve us; and I have no doubt that our defenceless state tended more to disarm the Bwea people than anything else.[147] I do hope that all our missionaries who may come to Africa will be members of the Peace Society. After a long and noisy discussion, in which John King, Copper, and a few others of the men who conducted me, nearly talked themselves out of breath, the Bwea men withdrew and held a private consultation. At this juncture Smith became alarmed for our safety, and on my return from the mountain told Mr. Ducket that he was just waiting to know the result of the conference of the Bwea men, and, if they had resolved on killing us, he intended to request them to destroy him first, that he might not endure the pain of seeing me put to death. Smith’s fears were, however, quite groundless. I do not think that the people had the remotest intention of hurting a hair of our heads. All they wanted was the contents of our boxes, and, not being able to frighten me into submission, they withdrew to come to some decision respecting the mode of bringing the palaver to a close. They soon returned, and said that, as I was unwilling to give them more cloth, they would be satisfied with a book (certificate) stating that I had visited the mountain from their district, in order that they might show it to any white man that might come after me. I very soon furnished the ‘book,’ when our carriers were permitted to leave, but we had only walked a short distance when one of our people was stopped by Dickenye’s brothers, because he said he had not received a shirt. The fact is, this man took a fancy to Smith’s flannel shirt, and requested me to give him one like it. On leaving I borrowed Smith’s flannel, and gave it to him, but after receiving it he was quite dissatisfied, and said he wanted a shirt similar to those the other chiefs had received, but, as all of that description were distributed, I could not comply with his request. He was, however, determined to get a shirt, and therefore followed us after we left his brother’s town, and stopped one of the boxes; Copper directly drew off his shirt and gave it to Bunggome, but took good care to secure for himself the flannel shirt, which is of more value than the one with which he parted.[148] We left Dickenye’s town at twenty-five minutes before eight, and after passing a town in the Bwea district entered the Bokwei district at half-past eight; and after leaving the towns of Morio and Namunde, entered the Bakuku district at five minutes before nine, and arrived at Junge’s town at two minutes before nine. We again reached Manja’s place at seven minutes after nine. The old man appeared happy to see me, and pressed me to remain over the night, expecting no doubt another present in the event of my doing so; but I told him I could not by any means stop, as I was anxious to get down as early as possible.
‘After breakfast our party prepared to leave Manja’s town, but one of his men, who had accompanied us to Bwea, stopped our boxes, because he had not in his opinion been sufficiently remunerated for his services. This man was not at all engaged by us, but, contrary to my desire, was sent by Manja to accompany us to Bwea. On my return to his town I made him a suitable present, but he would not allow us to proceed till he had received some cloth. During my journey I had to protest against people following me from different towns, who desired to do so, without at all being required, for the purpose of getting something. Unless the African traveller is watchful, he will at the end of his different journeys find many more servants in his employ than he set out with. Manja did all in his power to prevent Singga from stopping us, but such is the small influence and power of the old chief that he could not succeed.
‘At twenty minutes before two we left Manja’s town, and, travelling through the Bakuku district, passed Mokeba’s town at five minutes before two, and at two crossed a small stream. It is perhaps necessary to note here that all the streams which we crossed to-day were small. Crossed a stream at twenty-eight minutes after two. At half-past two left Pende- Dikoba’s town. Crossed a stream twenty-five minutes before three, and another at twenty minutes before three, called Wangge, and entered the Bunjoku district.
‘At five minutes after three passed Ekanye’s town, and shortly after that of Ebisa. There is a small house a few yards from the latter town. The road in this district is much better than any I have travelled over since I left Bimbia.
‘At ten minutes before four entered the Bunjumba district, and passed the town of Ipike. At three minutes before four passed in sight of Dibesse’s town, near which is that of Matande.[149] Crossed a stream called Wende at five minutes after four. At ten minutes after four passed in sight of Ngake’s town, and entered the Minyarri-Munggo district. Eighteen minutes after four we passed three towns together. The names of the chiefs are Dikri and Ngande. A short distance from these towns we passed in sight of the house of Ekuba-Kuba, and a few minutes after passed the town of Musio.
‘At half-past four arrived at a town whose chief, Dibutu Lanja, had died three days ago. The usual funeral ceremonies were being performed when we arrived, which were exceedingly ill adapted to the occasion. From five to six hundred people were assembled on an oblong piece of ground, and, amidst the noise of drums and the greatest confusion, danced up and down in the most ludicrous manner. A group of ten met together, and raising up their right hand struck it against the hand of each other till the ceremony of striking hands had been performed throughout the whole group.
‘On my arrival I was conducted to the house of a man called Foke, a short distance from the scene of the funeral ceremonies, lest, as I was told, my presence should attract the attention of the people, and thus put an end to their mirth. Many followed me, to whom I showed the letters of the alphabet, and my Isubu lesson. My watch as usual was quite an object of wonder and amazement. Unable to obtain a sight of me, some of the boys, Zaccheus like, climbed on trees to gratify their curiosity. Being anxious to see the whole of the funeral ceremony, I got up to walk to the place where the people were dancing, but Foke would not allow me to go. However, shortly after, Madiba, whose town I visited before going to the Camaroons Mountains, and to whom I have already alluded, came up, and, taking me by the hand, conducted me to the scene of action, and thus afforded me an opportunity of seeing all that was going on. I had not sat long before the man who was to succeed the deceased chief made his appearance in a soldier’s coat. A man held an umbrella over his head, and followed wherever he went. In a stooping posture the new chief ran among the crowd amidst the caressing of several young women, striking hands with all who presented theirs to him.
‘After a great deal of noise and dancing, silence was commanded, when Madiba, being master of the ceremonies, arose to speak, but before he commenced his address he picked up a pebble, and spitting upon it, placed it under his foot, and then walked up and down the avenue, speaking as he walked along. He said that Dibutu Lanja had died three days ago, and had left so many pieces of cloth (I do not recollect the number), pigs, sheep, and goats, and that during his illness two of his goats had been killed for him. Madiba having finished his address, several of the people exclaimed, “He, he,” yes, yes; shortly after which the party began to disperse.
‘I understand that on the death of a chief or master of a town, all his property, which generally consists of cloth, pigs, goats, and sheep, is distributed among his relatives and friends, and nothing is thought so honourable to a man as to be able on his death to leave a great deal of property for distribution. All the cloth which Dibutu Lanja possessed was on his death exhibited to the public for inspection, but was taken in before my arrival. I, however, saw his pigs, sheep, and goats, all of which were tied to stakes placed in the ground for the purpose.
‘At the close of the ceremonies, Copper, Smith, and I left for Ebore’s town, where we intended to sleep. Madiba on his way home walked with us a part of the road, and was very attentive and affectionate. On leaving us he inquired whether I did not intend to come and see him on the morrow. I promised to do so, and told him, in Isubu, as I best could, that I hoped he would love God, and give Him his heart. As I walked along, I began to think that the kindness and affection manifested by Madiba that evening (so contrary to his reserve and apparent sullenness when I visited his town a few days ago), proceeded from God, who I thought was moving his heart to favour us. I there resolved, if I saw it my duty, to ask him for some land on which to establish our first missionary station at Bwengga, which is a well-populated district, and where the inhabitants are not so widely scattered as in other parts of the country. The attention of our missionaries, as soon as they settle in the interior, must be directed to the concentrating of the population, or their work will be considerably increased. It will of course be a work of time, but with perseverance will I hope be effected.
‘We left the town of the deceased man at fifteen minutes before six, and, after crossing a stream and passing three towns, arrived safely at Ebore’s place at about half-past six. Our dinner consisted of ripe plantains, palm-oil, and palm-nuts, after which we retired to rest thoroughly wearied.
‘Tuesday, April 30th.
‘The selection of a place in the Bwengga district for the establishment of a station pressed much on my mind all the morning. Ebore is very willing to give land, and would be glad to see a missionary settled at his place; but his town is situated on an unfrequented spot, and is therefore ill adapted for a missionary. On the contrary, Madiba’s town is near the highway which leads to the Bwengga market, and consequently is the resort of many people.
‘After making Ebore another present, our party left his town at fifteen minutes before one, and proceeded to Madiba’s. On our way we crossed the stream which we passed last evening on our return to Ebore’s place. This stream supplies Madiba’s town and the adjacent ones with water; it is very small, and I was fearful that during the dry season it ceased to flow, but Copper informed me that it never dries.
‘I met a very warm reception from Madiba on my arrival, and, after a short conversation respecting the object of my visit, I gave him an excellent wrapper and a child’s garment. I then stated that I was desirous, if agreeable to him, to establish a missionary station near his town for the purpose of imparting to him and all the people of the district the knowledge of the true God, for I well knew that unless they became acquainted with God, and served Him with their hearts, they could neither be happy in this life nor after death. I then inquired whether he would give me land on which to build, &c. He most readily assented to my proposition, and, requesting me to follow him, showed me the land which he would give when we were ready to settle. I suppose he walked over ground about the sixth of a mile in length, and, pointing to the right and left, said, “This is yours—this is yours.” On our return to Madiba’s house I requested Copper to tell him plainly that he and his people were not to expect presents from the God-men who might come to reside at his town—that we did not intend to trade, but that our sole object was to impart religious instruction. Madiba replied that he heard what I had said, and would communicate the intelligence to all the people. Shortly after, he asked John King whether, like some of the white men who came to Bimbia to trade, I was in the habit of beating black men; and on being told I was entirely different from such men, he said he believed so, or I would not have brought them such good news respecting a future state.
‘With earnest longings for the enlightenment and conversion of Madiba, we left his town at three minutes before five, and eleven minutes after five entered the Bunjo district, and passed the towns of Bepingge and Bomani, which are very near each other. Seventeen minutes after five we arrived at Mekwalle’s town. This man is the father of Bepingge and Bomani, and is the most healthy individual in that part of the country. He is advanced in age, and according to the course of nature cannot be far from the gates of death. I explained to him the objects of my visit, and requested him to assemble his people, which he readily promised to do after dinner. At the appointed time about eighty people assembled, and listened very patiently to the solemn truths of the Gospel, but would not at all believe that Christian teachers would in time settle among them. I am not at all surprised at their incredulity, for, unacquainted as they are with the benevolence which the Gospel inculcates, it cannot but appear an anomalous thing that people should leave their country and come to reside among them, not for the purpose of gain, but only to do them good.
‘Wednesday, May 1.
‘Early this morning Madiba came to see me, and evinced much affection. May the Lord move his heart to favour the missionaries who may settle in his district, and not only so, but renew his mind, and adopt him into His family!
‘At seven o’clock our party left Mekwalle’s town. Five minutes after eight we passed a large farm in the Bunjo district. Indeed, from this time till half-past nine, we passed a number of farms, some of them rather extensive. The country in this district is well wooded.
‘Ten minutes before nine we entered the Mobeta district. Seeing one of our carriers with a few plantains, and knowing that he had taken them from the farm through which we were passing, I mentioned the circumstance to John King, in order that he might speak to the man about the impropriety of taking what was not his; but learnt that any person in passing a farm may, if hungry, take a few plantains, or canes, or any other edible, without being regarded as a thief.
‘At fifteen minutes before ten we came in sight of a large stream running in a south-easterly direction, called Kumbe. The river and country in its vicinity reminded me much of the Bog Walk River in Jamaica, and induced a few thoughts respecting my dear native country. Twenty-five minutes before eleven we crossed the stream just alluded to, which is about forty yards at the fording. A splendid settlement might be formed on the banks of this river. The country is well wooded, the soil excellent, and there is abundance of water.
‘Ten minutes after twelve we crossed a stream. Near the fording was a beautiful waterfall. The fall is about twenty feet, and at the landing of the water there is a basin about sixty yards in circumference.
‘Twenty-five minutes before one we entered the Gijanga district, and crossed a small stream called Musunggu. Ten minutes before one we came in sight of another creek, and crossed a small stream which flows into the creek. We arrived at Bupe’s town in the Gyangu[150] district at eight minutes after one. There are three towns near each other in this district, whose chiefs are called Bupe, Ngeke, and Ekeme. Shortly after entering the Mobeta district I discovered that John King, in order to arrive home to-day, had passed through a wood; so that from the time we left Mokwelle’s town in the morning, we did not see a single person till we arrived at the Gyangu district, which is situated on the coast, a short distance north of King William’s town. The sea being too high to enable us to walk along the beach to Dick Merchant’s town, from whence there is a road or tract to King William’s place, our party got into a canoe, and returned home by sea.
‘We arrived safely at King John’s town about half-past four, where I met Mr. Ducket on his way to Macko’s town to instruct the people, and was thankful and happy to find him in good health and spirits. On reaching King William’s town the children ran from all directions to greet me, and seemed very glad that I had returned in safety. I assembled them in the house, sung one of their school-songs, and dismissed them with prayer.
‘Thus, my dear sir, I have endeavoured to furnish a brief, and I fear an uninteresting, account of my tour. The grand object of my visit has, however, been attained, and with that I am satisfied. I have discovered that the way is opened for the introduction of the Gospel from Bimbia to the Camaroons Mountains, and, I have no doubt, much further in the interior. Land has been received for the establishment of our first station, where I hope myself to settle in a short time, and from whence the glorious Gospel will yet diffuse itself far and wide, not only among the Isubu tribes, but among other nations of Africa. May the great Head of the Church qualify us for our work by imparting every necessary grace and gift! I need hardly tell you that much devolves on our dear friends in England, Jamaica, and other parts of the world, where they know and experience the blessedness of the Gospel. Oh, that the Church may always be found at her post, and daily become more diligent and zealous in this best of all works! I cannot too strongly press upon the Christian public the necessity of furnishing garments for distribution in Africa. Our female friends in England and Scotland have already exerted themselves nobly in this benevolent work, but I hope they will continue to send other supplies from time to time.
‘I must not forget to mention that one of the most pleasing facts which I learnt in my journey was, that there were very few slaves in that part of the country. When the people were at one time very noisy at Manja’s place, I requested John King, if possible, to command silence. His reply was, “Oh, what a pity all the people in the bush are free!—we cannot get them to be quiet when we like.” The information made my heart leap for joy, and rendered the noise far less disagreeable than I at first considered it.
‘The districts I have visited are to the north-west of Bimbia. I expected before now to have seen several others to the south-west, but the arrival of dear brother Clarke on the 1st instant, with the house which was given him by the Jericho people, and which is being erected here, has hindered me from carrying my intention into effect, my time being now occupied in looking after the building.’
[Footnote 125: Up the Bimbia or Little Camaroons River, turning to the left (ascending) on the mountain-side.—R. B.]
[Footnote 126: Every soul dead—after twenty years or so!—R. B.]
[Footnote 127: It is on the left or west of Victoria Bay.—R. B.]
[Footnote 128: The same is the case with Bosumbo, Mapanya, &c.—R. B.]
[Footnote 129: In Africa, as in India, any fellow-tribeman is a brother.—R. B.]
[Footnote 130: Polite to his hospitable hosts!—R. B.]
[Footnote 131: So the Morocco women say of their European sisters that they dress in rags.—R. B.]
[Footnote 132: These two questions are most characteristically African. They can hardly believe in a non-eating or non-marrying being, which to them becomes a nonentity.—R. B.]
[Footnote 133: I presume the Colocasia esculenta.—R. B.]
[Footnote 134: ‘The Moriko and Bakuku district is the same, but is called by two names.’ [I much doubt this.—R. B.]]
[Footnote 135: It is high up and to the east of the mountain, which the Bwea people, who are now on bad terms with those of Mapanya, cross to the west. M. Mann’s cowardly Krumen ran away probably from a Bwea man.—R. B.]
[Footnote 136: During our ascent the report was that we were finding silks, cloth, wire, beads, &c.—gold and silver are unknown here—on the Camaroons. Thus only could the people explain our visiting it.—R. B.]
[Footnote 137: They probably never took the trouble to sow them.—R. B.]
[Footnote 138: Note by Mr. Merrick.—‘Whenever an Isubu (Bimbia) man dies, all the cloth he possesses is spread out on the housetop and exposed to public view. In accordance with this custom the Bwea men think that the genii of the mountains entertain so much respect for their chiefs as on their death to exhibit a variety of cloths.’]
[Footnote 139: Conference.]
[Footnote 140: It is a wild custom not known to the Duallas of the Camaroons River.—R. B.]
[Footnote 141: Obásí, God—plur. Báobásí—á, of; and Lobá, heaven.—R. B.]
[Footnote 142: There are also towns of this name on the east of the mountain.—R. B.]
[Footnote 143: Prop. Moonggo, plur. Mionggoo.—R. B.]
[Footnote 144: ‘Alluding to the plants which I brought down with me.’—M.]
[Footnote 145: ‘This district is some distance to the north of Bwea.’—M.]
[Footnote 146: Dibombe is an Isubu statute, which originated a few years ago in a dream. One Mfá má Ile, a man of the Ekombi district inland and north of Bimbia, saw a vision in which many dead men warned him of the evil of murdering or maiming, and that the bush people were to hang or wound the criminal only, not his innocent relations. The wholesome law is now, I fear, in abeyance.—R. B.]
[Footnote 147: Our party found it very different.—R. B.]
[Footnote 148: The shirt is still a favourite present: it makes a gentleman.—R. B.]
[Footnote 149: This shows the size of the ‘towns.’—R. B.]
[Footnote 150: Generally called Jángí.—R. B.]
APPENDIX III.
* * * * *
ENUMERATION of the MOUNTAIN FLOWERING PLANTS and FERNS collected by M. GUSTAV MANN, Government Botanist, during his various ascents of the Camaroons Mountains, of Clarence Peak, Fernando Po, and of the Peak of San Thomé. By J. D. HOOKER, M.D., F.R.S. and L.S., &c.
The figures denote the elevations at which the species were found.
F. signifies Fernando Po.
C. „ Camaroons Mountains.
S. T. „ Peak of San Thomé.
Clematis simensis, Fres. F. C. 4-8,000
Thalictrum rhyncocarpum, A. R. F. C. 7-10,000
Ranunculus pinnatus, Poir. var. F. 8,000
Stephania hernandifolia, Wall. F. C. 3-7,000
Cardamine hirsuta, L. F. C. 7-10,000
„ Africana, var. F. 7,500
Viola Abyssinica, Steud. F. C. 7-1,000
Pittosporum Mannii, n. sp. F. C. 8,500
Polygala tenuicaulis, n. sp. C. 7,000
10 Silene Biafræ, n. sp. C. 8-10,000
Cerastium vulgatum, L. C. 8,000
Stellaria drynarioides, n. sp. C. 7,000
Arenaria Africana, n. sp. C. 7-10,000
Sagina Abyssinica, Hochst. F. C. 8-11,000
Drynaria condata, Willd. C. 7,000
Hypericum angustifolium, Lamk. F. C. 4-10,000
Radiola millegrana, L. C. 7,000
Geranium Emirnense, Hils. and Boj. F. 8,500
Geranium Simense, Hochst. C. 7,000
20 „ favosum, Hochst. C. 7,000
Oxalis corniculata, L. F. C. 7-8,500
Impatiens Sakeriana, n. sp. C. 7,000
„ filicornu, n. sp. F. 4-5,000
Clausena inæqualis, Benth. C. 7-7,500
Brucea antidysenterica, Mill. C. 7-7,500
Gomphia micrantha, n. sp. F. 5,000
Ilex Capensis, S. and H. C. 4-7,500
Vitis cyphopetala, Fres. C. 7,000
Schmidelia Abyssinica, Hochst. C. 7-7,500
30 Adenocarpus Mannii, n. sp. F. C. 7-12,000
Trifolium subrotundum, St. and Hoch. F. 9,000
„ Simense, Fres. F. C. 7-8,500
Indigofera atriceps, n. sp. C. 7,000
Desmodium strangulatum, W. and A. C. 2-7,000
Shuteria Africana, n. sp. C. 7,000
Dalbergia, n. sp. C. 5,000
Rubus apetalus, Poir. F. C. 4-9,000
Alchemilla tenuicaulis, n. sp. F. C. 7-7,500
Pygeum Africanum, n. sp. C. 7-7,500
40 Tillæa alsinoides, n. sp. F. 7,500
„ pharnaceoides, Hochst. C. 7,000
„ pentandra, Royle C. 8,000
Umbilicus pendulinus, D. C. C. 7-10,000
Crassula Mannii, n. sp. C. 6-10,000
Kalanchœ Ægyptiaca, D. C. C. 3-7,000
Mukia, n. sp. F. C. 7,000
Bryonia, n. sp. C. ?
Hydrocotyle, n. sp. F. 7,000
„ Americana, L.? F. 8,500
50 Sanicula Europæa, L. F. C. 4-7,500
Agrocharis melanantha, Hochst. F. C. 7-8,000
Pimpinella oreophila, n. sp. F. C. 10,000
Peucedanum Petitianum, A. R. F. 9-9,500
Anthriscus Africanus, n. sp. C. 4-7,000
Paratropia Mannii, n. sp. F. C. 5-7,000
„ elata, n. sp. C. 7,500
Loranthus oreophilus, Oliv. C. 6-8,000
Baconia montana, n. sp. C. 7,000
Ixora C. 5,000
60 Vignaldia occidentals, n. sp. F. C. 7-9,000
Anthospermum asperuloides, n. sp. F. C. 10-12,000
Galium rotundifolium, L. F. C. 7-12,000
„ aparine, L. F. C. 7-10,000
Scabiosa succisa, L. C. 10,500
Vernonia myriantha, n. sp. F. C. 3-7,000
„ blumeoides, n. sp. C. 4-7,000
„ Mannii, n. sp. C. 7,000
„ Clarenceana, n. sp. F. 7,500-8,500
Stengelia nobilis, n. sp. C. 2-5,000-7,000
„ insignis, n. sp. C. 3-7,000
Adenostemma viscosum, Forst. F. C. 2-8,000
70 Mikania chenopodifolia, Willd. C. 4-7,000
Microglossa densiflora, n. sp. C. 7,000
Dichrocephala latifolia, D. C. C. 7,000
„ chrysanthemifolia, D. C. C. 7,000
„ oblonga, n. sp. F. 10,700
Blumea alata, D. C. C. 7-8,000
Verbesina monticola, n. sp. C. 5-7,000
Telekia Africana, n. sp. C. 7,000
Helichrysum Mannii, n. sp. F. C. 8-13,000
„ fœtidum, Cass. F. C. 4-10,000
80 „ Hochstetteri, Sch. F. C. 7-8,500
„ chrysocoma, Sch. F. C. 7-11,000
„ globosum, Sch. F. C. 7-10,000
„ Biafranum, n. sp. C. 7,000
Gynura vitellina, Bth. F. C. 2-8,500
Senecio Clarenceana, n. sp. F. C. 7-11,000
„ Mannii, n. sp. F. C. 25-7,500
„ Bojeri, D. C. C. 7,000
„ Burtoni, n. sp. C. 8-12,000
Lactuca Capensis, Th. C. 5-7,500
90 „ glandulifera, n. sp. C. 7-8,000
Sonchus angustissimus, n. sp. C. 7-8,000
Anisoramphus hypochæroides, D. C. C. 7-13,500
Wahlenbergia polyclada, n. sp. F. C. 7-8,000
„ arguta, n. sp. F. C. 7-9,000
Cephalostigma Perottetii, A. D. C. C. 7,000
Lobelia columnaris, n. sp. F. C. 7,000
„ acutidens, n. sp. F. 9,000
Leucothoe angustifolia, D. C. F. C. 4-9,000
Blæria spicata, Hochst. F. C. 10-10,700
100 Ericinella Mannii, n. sp. F. C. 4-11,000
Ardisiandra Sibthorpioides, n. sp. F. C. 7-7,500
Mæsa Indica, A. D. C. F. C. 5-7,000
Myrsine melanophlœos, Br. C. 4-7,500
Anthocleista scandens, n. sp. F. 5,000
Nuxia congesta, Br. C. 7-7,500
Sebæa brachyphylla, Griseb. F. C. 7-10,000
Swertia pumila, Hochst. C. 8-10,000
„ Mannii, n. sp. C. 7-8,000
„ Clarenceana, n. sp. F. C. 6-10,700
110 Cynoglossum micranthum, Desf. C. 7-8,000
„ lancifolium, n. sp. C. 7-8,000
Myosotis stricta, Link. F. C. 8-10,000
Limosella aquatica, L. F. 9-10,000
Veronica Mannii, n. sp. F. C. 7-10,700
„ Africana, n. sp. C. 7,000
Sibthorpia Europæa, L. F. C. 7-7,500
Celsia densifolia, n. sp. F. 8,500
Alectra Senegalensis, Roth. C. 7,000
Bartsia Abyssinica, Hochst. C. 7-9,000
120 Sopubia Madagascariensis, Roth. C. 6-7,000
Plectranthus glandulosus, n. sp. F. C. 7,000
„ insignis, n. sp. C. 7,000
„ ramosissimus, n. sp. F. C. 5-7,000
„ decumbens, n. sp. C. 7,000
Coleus glandulosus, n. sp. C. 2,500-7,000
„ tenuicaulis, n. sp. C. 7,000
„ Mannii, n. sp. C. 5-6,000
Pycnostachys Abyssinica, Fres. F. C. 6-7,000
Micromeria punctata, Br. C. 7-10,000
130 Calamintha Simensis, Br. F. C. 7-10,500
Nepeta robusta, n. sp. C. 6-8,000
Stachys aculeolata, n. sp. F. 9,000
Leucas deflexa, n. sp. C. 7,000
„ oligocephala, n. sp. C. 7-8,000
Solanum nigrum, L. C. 7-10,000
„ Indicum, L. F. C. 6-7,000
Discopodium penninervium, Hochst. F. C. 4-7,000
Utricularia orbiculata, Wall. C. 5,000
„ „ n. sp. C. 4-6,000
Plantago palmata, n. sp. F. C. 7-8,000
140 Rumex Abyssinicus, Jacq. C. 4-7,000
„ obtusifolius, L. var. C. 7,000
Polygonum Nepalense, Meism. F. 7,500
Achyranthes argentea, L. C. 7,000
Cyathula cylindrica, Moq. F. C. 7-10,000
Lasiosiphon glaucus, Fres. C. 7-7,500
Peddiea parviflora, n. sp. F. 5,000
Thesium tenuissimum, n. sp. F. C. 8-9,000
Euphorbia ampla, n. sp. F. C. 7-8,500
Phyllanthus, n. sp. C. 7,000
150 Claoxylon Mannii, n. sp. F. 5,000
Parietaria Mauritanica, L. C. F. 7-8,000
„ debilis, Forst. C. ?
Laportea alatipes, n. sp. C. 7,000
Elatostemma monticola, n. sp. C. 7,000
Pilea quadrifolia, A. Rich. C. 7,000
Myrica salicifolia, Hochst. C. 7-8,000
Lecanthus Wightii, Wedd. F. 7,500
Urera „ n. sp. C. 5,000
Peperomia Mannii, n. sp. C. 7-8,000
160 „ monticola, n. sp. C. 8,000
Coccobryon Capense, Kl. C. 7,000
Podocarpus Mannii, n. sp. S. T. ?
Liparis Capensis, Lindl. C. 6-7,000
Bolbophyllum tenuicaule, n. sp. F. 5,000
„ Mannii, n. sp. F. 4-5,000
„ monticolum, n. sp. C. 5,000
„ aurantiacum, n. sp. C. 5-6,000
„ bifarium, n. sp. C. 5,000
„ „ n. sp. C. 5,000
170 Angræcum arcuatum, Lindl. C. 4-6,000
„ „ n. sp. C. 5,000
Polystachys Alpina, Lindl. F. 6,000
„ „ C. 5,000
„ „ C. 5,000
„ „ C. 5,000
„ „ C. 5,000
„ „ C. 5,000
Calanthe corymbosa, n. sp. F. 5,000
Disa alpina, n. sp. C. 7,000
180 Peristylus 3-dentatus, n. sp. C. 7,000
Habenaria debilis, n. sp. C. 7,000
„ attenuata, n. sp. C. 7,000
„ microceras, n. sp. C. 7,000
„ præalta, Lindb. F. 10,000
„ Mannii, n. sp. C. 7,000
Trichonema bubocodium. C. 7-9,000
Geissorhiza alpina, n. sp. C. 9-10,000
Hypoxis villosa, L. C. 7-7,500
Melanthium tenue, n. sp. F. 9,000
190 Commelyna, n. sp.?. C. 7,000
Cyanotis Abyssinica, A. Rich. F. C. 7-9,000
Juncus capitatus, Wieg. C. 7,000
Lugula campestris, L. F. C. 8-10,000
Cyperus elegantulus, Steud. F. 8,500
„ ingratus, Kth. F. C. 6-7,000
„ adœnsis, Hoch. F. 8,500
Kyllingia macrocephala F. C. 7,000
Isolepis capillaris, R. and S. F. C. 8-10,500
„ schœnoides, Kth. F. C. 7-9,000
200 Carex cruciata, var? St. T. ?
„ Wahlenbergiana, Boott. F. 8,000
„ Boryana, Schk. F. 7,500-8,500
„ Æthiopica, Schk. C. 7-10,000
„ Echinochlœ, Kunth. C. 7,000
Panicum Hochstetteri, Steud. C. 7,000
„ acrotrichum, n. sp. C. 7,000
„ monticolum, n. sp. C. 7,000
„ pusillum, n. sp. C. 7-8,000
Isachne refracta, n. sp. C. 7,000
210 Pennisetum riparioides, Hoch.? C. 7-8,000
Vilfa montana, n. sp. C. 7-9,000
Deyeuxia Mannii, n. sp. F. C. 8-13,500
Microchloa setacea, Br. C. 7,000
Deschampsia cæspitosa, P. B. F. C. 9-12,000
Aira caryophyllea, L. C. 7-8,000
„ pictigluma, Steud. C. 9-13,500
Avena lachnantha, Hoch. C. F. 7-9,000
„ Neesii, Steud. C. 7-8,000
Loudetia elegans, Hoch. C. 7,000
220 Danthonia streblochæte, H. C. 8,000
Poa nemoralis, L. F. C. 7-10,000
Kœleria cristata, Pers. C. 8-12,000
Vulpia bromoides, Pal. C. 7-10,000
Festuca Simensis, Hoch. F. C. 7-8,500
„ gigantea, Vill. F. 8,500
„ Schimperiana, A. R. F. C. 8-13,500
Tripogon major, n. sp. C. 7-8,000
Bromus scabridus, n. sp. C. 7-8,000
Brachypodium sylvaticum, Pal. F. 7,000
230 Andropogon distachyus, L. C. 7,000
„ brachyatherus, Hoch.? C. 8,000
„ Mannii, n. sp. F. 8,500-9,000
„ Smithianus, n. sp. C. 7,000
„ pusillus, n. sp. C. 7,000
235 Arundinella elegantula, n. sp. C. 6-7,000
FILICES.
Gleichenia dichotoma S. T. from 7,000
Cyathea, n. sp. St. T. F. C.?
Adiantum Æthiopicum C. 7,000
Lonchitis glabra S. T. C. F. 7,000
Hypolepis pteridioides C. 7,000
Cheilanthes farinosa C. 7-10,000
Pellæa hirsuta C. 7,000
Pteris quadri-aurita C. 7,000
„ flabellata F. 7,000
„ aquilina C. 7,000
Asplenium anisophyllum C. 3-7,000
„ erectum F. C. 3-7,000
„ monanthum F. 8,000
„ protensum F. C. 7,000
„ Serra F. C. 3-7,000
„ furcatum, var. C. 8,000
„ Adiantum-nigrum C. 10,000
„ Abyssinicum F. C. 3-7,000
„ brachypterum C. 3-7,000
„ Filix-fœmina C. 7,000
„ aspidioides F. C. 5-7,000
Aspidium aculeatum F. C. 7-10,000
Nephrodium crini-bulbon S. T. C. 4-7,000
„ filix-mas S. T. 6,000
„ inæquale F. C. 7-10,000
Nephrolepis tuberosa S. T. C. 4-5,000
Polypodium villosissimum St. T. 6,000
„ rugulosum F. 7,000
„ „ n. sp. C. 7,000
„ oppositifolium S. T. 5,000
Pleopeltis lanceolata C. 7,000
„ nuda S. T. F. 3-5,000
Gymnogramme Javanica S. T. F. C. 3-7,000
„ Totta F. C. 1-7,000
„ lanceolata F. C. 3-7,000
Elaphoglossum hybridum F. C. 4-8,000
„ splendens F. C. 5-7,000
Acrostichum sorbifolium F. 5-7,000
Ophioglossum reticulatum F. 10,500
Lycopodium crassum C. 1-5,000
Selaginella, sp.? F. 8,000
„ sp.? S. T. 5,000
APPENDIX IV.
* * * * *
NOTES on certain MAMMALIA, BIRDS, SNAKES, and LANDSHELLS collected on CAMAROONS MOUNTAINS, by Captain BURTON, H.M. Consul, Fernando Po. By Dr. G. R. GRAY, and Dr. WM. BAIRD.
(Proceedings of the Zoological Society of London, 1862, p. 180.)
_Crocidura Morio_, sp. nov.
Uniform rather brownish black, rather paler and browner beneath. Teeth white. Feet very slender, weak. Tail nearly as long as the body and head, very slender, annulated, covered with very short closely adpressed hair.
Length of body and head, dry, 23⁄4 inches; tail, dry, 2 inches.
‘_Mole_ from Camaroons Mountains, 7000 feet above the level of the sea, January 1862.’
_Sciurus Isabella_, sp. nov.
Yellowish brown, minutely grizzled, with four broad dorsal streaks—the two central from the crown of the head to the base of the tail, the side ones from the shoulder only; the underside whitish grey. Tail slightly annulated.
Length of body and head 7 inches; tail 5 inches.
‘_Squirrel_ from the Camaroons Mountains, 7000 feet above the level of the sea, January 1862.’
I have great pleasure in naming this beautiful new species after Mrs. Isabel Burton,—her husband, the discoverer of it, having requested that any novelty that might be in the list should be so named.
_Anomalurus Beecroftii_, Fraser.
‘A _Flying Squirrel_, shot in the Camaroons Mountains, 7000 feet above the level of the sea. Colour of the eyes dark grey. January 18, 1862.’
_Mus Maura_, sp. nov.
Fur very soft and silky; above black, slightly marked with brown from the minute brown tips of the hairs; beneath whitish—the hair of the underside black, white-tipped. Teeth very narrow, orange. Ears rounded, moderate. Sides of the nose and edge of the orbits black. Eyes covered with very short close-pressed hairs. Tail very long, slender, closely annulated with very slender, very short adpressed hair.
Length of body and head 41⁄2 inches; tail 5 inches; hind foot very nearly 1 inch.
‘Camaroons Mountains, 7000 feet above the level of the sea.’
_Euryotis Irrorata_, sp. nov.
‘Rat from the Camaroons Mountains, 7000 feet above the level of the sea. January 1862.’
I am not certain about this species until I can compare the skull with those of the other species of the genus from Africa, as they are all very similar externally.
With these animals was sent the skin of a Chimpanzee without its skull, but with the bones of the hand and feet enclosed in the skin. This skin differs from all the other specimens of this species which I have seen, in being covered with much more abundant and softer fur, and in the fur of the back being of a brown colour from the large brown tips to the blackish hair. It would seem to indicate a distinct variety or species, which may be designated, until we receive better specimens and more particulars, _Troglodytes vellerosus_.
DESCRIPTIONS OF A FEW WEST-AFRICAN BIRDS.
BY DR. G. R. GRAY.
(From the ‘Annals and Magazine of Natural History’ for Dec. 1862.)
* * * * *
_To the Editors of the ‘Annals of Natural History.’_
GENTLEMEN,
The following descriptions of a few birds, which appear new to the fauna of West Africa, may interest some of your readers. They were collected on the Camaroons Mountains, at an elevation of 7000 feet above the level of the sea. They were sent to Mrs. Isabel Burton, the estimable lady of the distinguished traveller and Consul, Capt. Burton, and kindly presented by her to the British Museum.
_Pratincola Salax_.
_Pratincola salax_, Verr., Rev. et Mag. de Zool. 1851, p. 307.
_Cossypha Isabellæ_.
Head black, with a shining white mark between the nostril and the middle above the eye; back olivaceous-black; wings black, each feather margined with olivaceous; beneath the body rufous-buff, deeper on the breast; rump and outer tail-feathers deep rufous, with the tips of the second, third, and fourth feathers, and tip and outer margin of the first feather, black; the four middle feathers black, with the outer margin of the fifth near the base deep rufous.
Total length, 6′′; wings 2′′ 11′′′; tarsi, 13′′′; bill from gape, 9′′′.
This bird is named in compliment to Mrs. Isabel Burton.
_Zosterops (Speirops) melanocephalus_.
Mouse-colour, washed with olivaceous; head sooty black, with a spot on each side between the nostril and eye; mentum and under wing-coverts white; beneath the body pale obscure grey, tinged with olivaceous; quills and tail fuscous-black, the former margined outwardly with grey. Bill and feet whitish horn-colour.
Total length, 4′′ 9′′′; wings, 2′′ 5′′′; tarsi, 9′′′; bill from gape, 7′′′.
_Trichophorus tephrolæmus_.
Yellowish-olive; head and throat slate-colour, darker on the head; abdomen yellow; breast, sides, and under tail-coverts olivaceous- yellow; quills fuscous-black, with outer webs olivaceous, the inner web margined near the base with buff; tail dull olivaceous, the end of the outer feather slightly tipped with yellow; bill black; feet plumbeous.
Total length, 7′′ 6′′′; wings, 3′′ 3′′′; tarsi, 10′′′; bill from gape, 10′′′.
Closely allied to _Trichophorus canicapillus_, Hartl.; but the throat is pale ash-colour.
_Euplectes phœnicomerus_.
Black; rump and wing-coverts pale clear yellow; under wing-coverts pale rufous-white; thighs pale brown.
Like _E. xanthomelas_; but the yellow on the rump and wings is paler, and the thighs are pale brown instead of black.
Total length, 5′′ 3′′′; wings, 2′′ 10′′′; tarsi, 11′′′; bill from gape, 71⁄2′′′.
_Ligurnus[151] olivaceus_, Hartl.
_Coccothraustes olivaceus_, Fras., Proc. Z. S. 1842, p. 144.
Adult male yellowish-olivaceous; head and throat deep black; sides and a narrow band round the neck, rump, and beneath the body bright orange-yellow; quills black, with the tertials and larger wing-coverts margined outwardly with bright yellow, and the quills inwardly with white; tail olivaceous-green, with each feather margined on the sides and tip with bright yellow; bill orange; feet pale.
The _female_ agrees with Mr. Fraser’s typical specimen, said to have been obtained at Fernando Po, and which is now deposited in the British Museum. It is figured in the ‘Zoologica Typica,’ pl. 47, by Mr. Fraser.
_Young._—Dull olivaceous-green; beneath the body dull olivaceous- yellow; bill and feet blackish lead-colour.
_Strobilophaga Burtoni_.
Fuscous, varied with pale olivaceous on the sides of the plumes; wing- coverts fuscous-black, tipped with white; quills and tail fuscous- black, margined narrowly with yellow; abdomen obscure white, spotted with fuscous-black down the shaft of some of the feathers; upper mandible horn-colour, lower mandible white; feet plumbeous.
Total length, 7′′; wings, 3′′ 6′′′; tarsi, 9′′′; bill from gape, 8′′′.
The formation of this bird agrees in every respect with the genus _Pinicola_ or _Strobilophaga_. A species of this genus has not hitherto been recorded as found in Africa.
To these may be added the
_Cosmetornis Burtoni_.
It is very similar to the _Cosmetornis vexillarius_ (Gould), G. R. Gr., but differs in the white spot at the base of each quill being narrower, while the white at the tip of the second, third, fourth, and fifth quills is more prominent and slightly mottled with rufous on the outer web; the first quill longer than the second, fuscous-black, and partly margined with rufous on the outer webs; the sixth feather is rather longer than the fifth, the seventh rather longer than the latter; both are fuscous-black, slightly mottled with pale rufous, having the bases of the inner webs white; the eighth is much longer than the first quill, and fuscous-black, slightly mottled with pale rufous, the base of the inner web white or pale rufous; the ninth feather (or, as it has been termed, ‘standard feather’) is the longest of all, measuring more than 17 in.; it is white at the base of both inner and outer webs, but passing into pale rufous, or rufous-white mottled with black, on the outer web, while the inner is only rufous- white for its entire length from the basal white.
The specimen is in an imperfect state, and only sufficient to afford the above description so as to distinguish it from the previously known species. The British Museum is indebted to the liberality of Capt. Burton, H.M. Consul, who has just sent it with other zoological specimens, all marked as from Fernando Po, and after whom I have the pleasure of naming this interesting bird.
Major Burton has also sent to the British Museum a new kind of viper (_viperidæ_). It is probably scarce, as only a single specimen was sent in the collection.
Dr. Gunther has thus described it in the _An. and Mag. N. Hist._ 1863, 25, and intends to give a figure of it in the Proceedings of the Zoological Society.
_Pœcilostolus_.
Head thick, broad, covered with strongly keeled scales; body compressed; tail prehensile, subcaudal shields. Entire.
This genus differs from _Echis_ in its compressed body, prehensile tail, and bright colours. While _Echis_ is confined to dry sandy plains, _Pœcilostolus_ inhabits trees and bushes. _Vipera chlorœchis Schegel_ probably belongs to the same genus.
_Pœcilostolus Burtoni_.
Scales strongly keeled, in nineteen rows; upper row nine, none of which enter the orbit; rostral shield very low, linear, with other scale-like shields above. Entirely bright yellow, single scales green.
_Inhab._ Camaroons country.
* * * * *
DESCRIPTIONS OF TWO SPECIES OF SHELLS FROM CAMAROONS MOUNTAINS. BY WM. BAIRD.
1. _Achatina Isabel_, Baird, sp. nov.
Testa cylindracea, fulva, minute undulato-striata et parum decussata, anfractibus octo, ultima tumida, dimidiam totæ testæ æquante, suturis impressis, apertura semilunari, parva.
Longitudo, 11⁄3 unc.—Latitudo maxima, 1⁄2 unc.
Habitat, Montes Camaroons dictæ, in Africa Occidentali.
This shell is covered with an epidermis of a dark fulvous colour, and its surface is marked by numerous fine longitudinal striæ, which are most distinct near the suture, are waved and impressed, while at the same time several indistinct transverse lines run across them, giving a somewhat decussated appearance. The whirls are eight in number, the apical ones blunt, the last tumid and about half the length of the whole shell. The outer lip is thin, and the interior of the semilunar aperture somewhat purplish. The sutures are distinct, and rather deeply impressed.
2. _Achatina montana_, Baird, sp. nov.
Testa parva, cylindracea, gracili, olivacea, nitida, prope suturas undulato-striata, anfractibus octo, ultimo tertiam partem testæ æquante, suturis impressis, apertura semilunari, parva.
Longitudo, lin. 13.—Lat. max. lin. 31⁄2.
Habitat, Montes Camaroons dictæ, in Africa Occidentali.
This species of Achatina is much more slender and smoother than the preceding, and is of a darker colour. The apex is blunt, and the last whirl is much less tumid than the corresponding whirl of _A. Isabel_, and is shorter, being only about one-third the length of the shell. The surface is striated, but the striæ are scarcely perceptible except near the sutures, which are well marked and impressed.
[Footnote 151: _Ligurnus rufobrunneus_.—Rufous-brown, slightly darker along the shaft of each feather; wings and tail dull brown, margined with rufous-brown; beneath the body much paler, varied in some places with darker; bill and feet horn-colour.
Length, 6′′; wings, 3′′ 5′′′; tarsi, 9′′′; bill, from gape, 7′′′.
This bird has been many years in the collection of the British Museum. It was brought to this country from Western Africa by Capt. (now Major- General) Sabine, R.A., and was presented by him to that institution.]
APPENDIX V.
* * * * *
REPORTS AND LETTERS TOUCHING AMBAS BAY.
No. 1.
59 Fenchurch Street, August 15, 1856.
MY LORD,
I take the liberty of enclosing a memorandum on the High Land of Camaroons, the only position on the West Coast of Africa where immunity from tropical fever can be attained.
The great change that the suppression of the slave trade will make in our commercial relations with the Coast of Africa, adds greatly to the value of this position, as we have no port from Sierra Leone to the Cape, where, in case of war, a British vessel could find protection.
At present several British merchants have formed establishments at Fernando Po, as depôts for their trade with the mainland; but they are merely on sufferance, as the Spanish Government might at any time, by enforcing their tariff, render it impossible for them to continue.
I have no doubt that, if the British flag were hoisted at Amboises, it would, in a few years, be the Singapore of Western Africa from its position and climate.
I have, &c.
(Signed) M. LAIRD.
The Right Hon. the Earl Grey.
No. 2.
_Memorandum on the High Land of Camaroons, in the Bight of Biafra, as a site for a European Settlement, above the level of Tropical Fever._
1. The physical characteristic of the West Coast of Africa, and the principal cause of its unhealthiness to Europeans, is its slight elevation above the level of the sea. From the range of the Atlas to the Cape of Good Hope, a distance of nearly 6000 miles, with the exception of the high land of Camaroons, there is no land of sufficient elevation to secure immunity from the fatal African fever.
2. The high land of the Camaroons is situated at the extreme eastern point of the Gulf of Guinea, in longitude 8° 50′ E. and latitude 4° N., bounded on the W. by the Rio del Rey, and on the E. by the Camaroons River. The highest peak has an elevation of 13,700 feet; the Rumli and Qua mountains of great height are visible to the N., but no measurement of their elevation has yet been made: they all form apparently part of one great mountain-range stretching into the interior.
3. At the foot of the mountain of Camaroons, which abuts abruptly upon the sea, is the well-sheltered harbour of Amboises, capable of receiving the largest vessels, open to the sea-breeze, sheltered on the land side by nearly perpendicular cliffs of considerable height, and capable of being made a most complete naval station. The harbour was discovered in 1833, and surveyed by Captain Wm. Allen, R.N., of H.M.’s S.S. ‘Wilberforce,’ in 1842. A full description of it, with views of the surrounding scenery, is given in Captain Allen’s published narrative of the Niger Expedition of 1841. The land rises from the cliffs which form the landward side of the harbour, and attains an elevation of upwards of 5000 feet within five miles of it.
4. This is the only point upon the West Coast of Africa, N. of the Cape Colony, where a European settlement could be formed above the fever- level, which is presumed to be 4000 feet above the sea.
Its advantages are:—A good open harbour, accessible at all times to ships of the largest class, and easily descended.
A rapid ascent to a temperate climate, where tropical fever could not propagate itself.
A small and peaceable native population, confined to the low grounds.
A central position for all the trading ports from Whydah to Camaroons, being within 100 miles of the Niger, Bonny, and Calabar Rivers, where the bulk of the palm-oil trade is carried on.
In case of war, a settlement at this point would command the embouchures of all the rivers in the Bight of Biafra, and be a key to the only entrance into the continent that seems practicable by land.
5. From the twentieth parallel of south latitude to ten north, and for an average breadth of 25° of longitude, covering a space of nearly 3,000,000 square miles, lies the _terra incognita_ of Africa: to the modern as well as to the ancient world, the sources of the Nile, the Sharry, and the Congo, and the countries which for centuries have given out their people as slaves, are unknown; the deadly climate of the low ground has proved the impassable barrier to discovery.
It is possible that, from Camaroons, an expedition might reach in safety the elevated plateaus of Central Africa, and fill up the void that now appears in maps.
6. From the fifth parallel of north latitude to the Sahara and the plateau of Abyssinia in the east, the depression of the African continent is very remarkable. The Niger, with its course of 3500 miles, is only 1600 feet at its source above the level of the sea, and no travellers have recorded any mountains or even hills of considerable elevation; the highest seen on the Niger did not exceed 1500 feet.
South of the fifth parallel a very different state of things exists, and there is strong presumptive evidence that a continuous tract of elevated land runs from Camaroons to the Indian Ocean, extending S. to the limits of Cape Colony. The late discoveries made by travellers from the Cape prove that, as far as the twentieth parallel, Europeans are perfectly safe in the centre of the continent, while descending on the same parallel to the coast is eminently dangerous. The discovery of a snowy range, if correct, on the East Coast, close to the Equator, a latitude at which the limit of perpetual snow exceeds 18,000 feet, and the high land which abuts upon the Atlantic at Camaroons, all tend to show that the southern division of the continent will, when explored, offer a marked contrast in its physical development to the northern, and probably contains vast stores of mineral wealth. Copper ore finds its way in small quantities now to the coast.
7. It is not to be expected that Europeans would settle at Camaroons to grow tropical produce—they will naturally prefer a healthy tropical country for that purpose; nor will Africans. The climate of the low ground does not injure them. Its advantages will be appreciated by the merchant, who could transact his business at the port during the day, and sleep in pure air at night. This, with its safe harbour, will make it the centre of a great trade, and, by the naval service, who could always command a temperate climate for their invalids, without leaving the station. A hospital above the fever-level would be the means of saving many valuable lives annually.
The great value of this position to this country is undoubtedly its extraordinary adaptation for a penal settlement. Supposing, by that labour, a good road made to the superior land from the port, European prisoners might be kept there in perfect security; any attempt to escape would be defeated by the climate. They would displace no native population, for that is confined to the low ground. They would be completely isolated, and governed with greater ease than convict stations surrounded by white settlers. Employment could be found to any extent in cutting timber, making roads, and raising their own provisions.
As long as they remained in the high land they would be safe; the penalty for leaving it would be levied by nature herself. Ground could be allotted to the well behaved, and the great source of depravity would be removed by allowing intermarriage with the native women. A mixed race would be the result, which experience has found to be the most efficient way of improving mankind. As long as transportation continues, and the difficulty of finding a practical substitute for it is generally acknowledged, there is no part of the world where a convict can be placed with less injury to his fellow-creatures, and with greater chance of reformation for himself.
* * * * *
No. 3.
_Rev. Mr. Saker to Mr. Consul Hutchison._
Clarence, Fernando Po, June 30, 1858.
SIR,
The bay of Amboises we entered at 11 A.M., at its N.E. angle; we found an interior bay hidden from a great part of the principal anchorage, and its entrance not distinguished without a very near approach. The heavy headland that defends the great bay from S.W. storms, continues of the same elevation, and runs into the bay, forming its S.E. side, and terminates in a precipitous hill, shutting in the inner bay. Rocks run out from this point in the line of high land, and extend many yards towards the mainland, thereby narrowing the entrance to the bay.
On these rocks the surf beats heavily at times. On the mainland, too, a line of rocks extends in a direction to meet those spoken of above, thereby narrowing the entrance still more. These last rocks form a natural pier, on which may be built at small cost a platform for landing goods, &c. On the inner side of the pier, coal-ships and steam-vessels may be brought, and discharge or receive coal without delay or damage. Coals may be conveyed from the pier in carriages on an iron tramway into the sheds on the beach. The clear entrance to this inner bay is about half a mile wide, with five and six fathoms water. The shores of this bay are one continued line of sand, varying at low water from 50 to 100 yards in width, covered entirely with a tide which rises 9 feet on full and change. The water lies placid on the beach, and boats and small vessels can be brought to it at all seasons for examination and repair. This beach is covered by a level bank of two miles’ extent, on which may be built stores for coal and merchandize, sheds for artificers of all sorts, and slips for boatbuilding, &c.
The rocky pier forms the N.W. end of this bay, and from that point begins the N.E. shore of the greater bay, rocky and elevated. Beginning at the pier-end, a low table-land extends along the beach. Here can be built a town of large extent, open to the pure sea-breeze by day, and the mountain-air at night. This table-land is broken, at 330 yards from the pier, by a stream of pure water from the mountains, here finding its outlet into the sea. Two other streams of fresh water empty themselves in the inner bay, but the one first named might be conveyed by pipe to the pier-head.
A harbour equal to Amboises Bay, a locality so healthy, and a position for opening a trade with the interior tribes on this mountain-range of Central Africa, does not exist. The supposed want of a safe landing has alone prevented it being brought into notice.
In this place we seek to establish a home for our friends, who are, in effect, expelled from Clarence. There are great difficulties in the way, but with the aid of our friends in England, especially with the countenance and support of our Government, we shall overcome them all. The work before us, besides forming a home for our friends, is the following:—To establish at the foot of the mountain of Camaroons an English colony, to be the foundation of an English city. To make that colony the centre of religious enlightenment, civilization, and commerce, to be a barrier to slavery, oppression, and cruelty. To succeed we need first the lawful possession of a tract of land. This I have limited to our immediate wants; but we need more for expansion and security. We need that the whole mountain seaboard be the lawful possession of the British crown.
Her Majesty is now the acknowledged sovereign, but an honourable purchase from the present chief, who has been raised to authority by English officers, would prevent all future disputes.
This would be readily effected, and the purchase of an uninhabited wilderness, as the greater portion is, would be but a trifle. We need that H.M.’s Government sanction and sustain the effort by making this English colony and bay their local depôt. And the naval officers would be but too glad to make this exchange; as a sanitarium, and as a point of supply of provisions, Clarence cannot be compared to it.
The countenance and support of H.M.’s Government is so essential that, without it, I fear we shall fail; and I do trust that the objects we seek to accomplish will commend this effort to the favourable notice of H.M.’s Government and the Admiralty.
I have, &c.,
(Signed) ALFRED SAKER.
APPENDIX VI.
* * * * *
OBSERVATIONS OF TEMPERATURE BELOW AND UPON THE CAMAROONS MOUNTAINS, KEPT BY M. GUSTAV MANN, GOVERNMENT BOTANIST, WEST AFRICA, AND SELIM AGA, BETWEEN THE 6TH DECEMBER, 1861, AND THE 24TH FEBRUARY, 1862.
The instruments used were two Bath Thermometers, Negretti and Zambra, London (patent, Nos. 1064 and 1063, graduated to 110° and 180° Fah.), suspended near camp with a south-westerly aspect: one,—the first of the double observation—in the sun; the other, the second, in the shade; both 31⁄2 feet above the ground. The maximum and minimum were Nos. 2697 and 1764 of Messrs. Negretti and Zambra. In the minimum the alcohol was at first red; it presently paled to a dull straw yellow. In the remarks I have used a small pocket thermometer (Fah.) by Messrs. Cary, London.
The correction for No. 1064 (sun therm.) is at 32° − 0·1
„ „ at 42° − 0·1
„ „ at 52° − 0·1
„ „ at 62° + 0·1
„ „ at 72° + 0·1
„ „ at 82° correct.
„ „ at 92° − 0·2
The correction for No. 1063 (shade therm.) is at 32° − 0·1
„ „ at 42° − 0·4
„ „ at 52° − 0·5
„ „ at 62° correct.
„ „ at 72° − 0·4
„ „ at 82° − 0·4
„ „ at 92° − 0·4
The maximum and minimum are correct.
[D.: DATE MAX.R: MAX. SELF REGIST. MIN.R: MIN. SELF REGIST.]
+--+----------+---------+----------+--------+-----+-----+--------------+ |D.| 6 A.M. | NOON. | 6 P.M. | WIND. |MAX.R|MIN.R| REMARKS. | +--+----------+---------+----------+--------+-----+-----+--------------+ | | ° ′| ° ′| ° ′ | | ° ′| ° ′| | |Dec. 61. | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |{ | 84 50| 75 50}| | | |M. Mann | | |{ | | }| | | |landed at | | |{ | | }| | | |Victoria. | | 6|{ | | }| |84 50| |Base of the | | |{ | | }| | | |mountain. | | |{ | | }| | | |Cloudy day, | | |{ | | }| | | |strong | | |{ | 96 | 77 }| | | |sea-breeze. | | | | | | | | | | | |{ 70 50| 85 50| 80 }| | | | | | |{ | | }| | | | | | 7|{ | | }| |86 |71 50|Do. | | |{ | | }| | | | | | |{ 72 50| 104 | 80 50}| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |{ 74 | 85 | 80 }| | | | | | |{ | | }| | | | | | 8|{ | | }| |86 |73 |Do. | | |{ | | }| | | | | | |{ 74 50| 105 | 81 }| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |{ 71 50| 84 | 74 }| | | | | | |{ | | }| | | |Warm and | | 9|{ | | }| |85 25|72 |sunny. | | |{ | | }| | | | | | |{ 73 | 85 50| 75 50}| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |{ 67 50| 84 | 82 }| | | | | | |{ | | }| | | | | |10|{ | | }| |85 75|67 50|Do. | | |{ | | }| | | | | | |{ 69 | 95 | 82 }| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |{ 70 50| 83 75| 82 }| | | |Do. Heavy | | |{ | | }| | | |thunderstorm, | |11|{ | | }| |86 50|70 50|without wind, | | |{ | | }| | | |at night | | |{ 71 50| 94 | 82 }| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |{ 71 | 85 50| 80 50}| | | | | | |{ | | }| | | |First half of | |12|{ | | }| |85 25|70 50|day cloudy, | | |{ | | }| | | |then clear. | | |{ 71 50| 98 | 81 }| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |{ 72 75| | 72 }| | | | | | |{ | | }| | | |At Bosumbo. | |13|{ | | }| | |72 |Warm, clear | | |{ | | }| | | |day. | | |{ 73 | | 73 75}| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |{ 67 50| 78 25| 72 }| | | | | | |{ | | }| | | | | |14|{ | | }| |79 50|66 50|At ditto. | | |{ | | }| | | |Rain. | | |{ 69 | 85 25| 73 25}| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |{ 65 50| | 65 50}| | | | | | |{ | | }| | | | | |15|{ | | }| | |65 |At Mapanya. | | |{ | | }| | | |Sunny day. | | |{ 66 50| | 69 }| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |{ 59 50| 76 75| 65 50}| | | | | | |{ | | }| | | | | |16|{ | | }| |72 50|59 50|At do. Clear | | |{ | | }| | | |and sunny. | | |{ 60 50| 78 50| 69 }| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |{ 60 50| | }| | | | | | |{ | | }| | | |On mountain. | |17|{ | | }| | |61 |Hazy, smoky, | | |{ | | }| | | |and misty. | | |{ 62 | | }| | | | | | | | | | | | | | |18| Dies non.| | | | | |On ditto. | | | | | | | | |Cloudy as | | | | | | | | |usual. At | | | | | | | | |Victoria | | | | | | | | |fine, clear, | | | | | | | | |and warm. | | | | | | | | | | | |{ | 77 50| 64 75}| | | |Began by | | |{ | | }| | | |march up the | |19|{ | | }| Sea- | | |mountain to | | |{ | | }|breeze. | | |Mapanya. | | |{ | 75 | 68 75}| | | |Clear and hot.| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | [152] | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |{ 60 | 75 | 69 }| | | | | | |{ | | }| | | |At Mapanya. | |20|{ | | }| | | |Fine clear | | |{ | | }| | | |day. | | |{ 63 | 75 | 71 }| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |{ 62 25| 78 | }| | | |Left Mapanya; | | |{ | | }| | | |reached Ridge | |21|{ | | }| | | |Camp. Hot | | |{ | | }| | | |day; cold | | |{ 62 | 76 25| }| | | |night. | | | | | | | | | | |22| 68 | | 50 | E. | |40 |Ascended | | | | | | | | |hill. At 8·30 | | | | | | | | |Therm. 80°. | | | | | | | | |Wet day. Cold | | | | | | | | |wind from E. | | | | | | | | |At 4·45 P.M. | | | | | | | | |Therm. 60°. | | | | | | | | | | |23| 48 | | | S.W. | | |At 8 A.M. | | | | | | | | |mist from | | | | | | | | |S.W., Ther. | | | | | | | | |68°. At 10 | | | | | | | | |A.M., in | | | | | | | | |sun, 92°; | | | | | | | | |shade, 85°. | | | | | | | | |At 11 A.M., | | | | | | | | |cloud and | | | | | | | | |wind, 72°. At | | | | | | | | |noon, sun and | | | | | | | | |cloud, 84°. | | | | | | | | |At 1 P.M., | | | | | | | | |misty, in sun | | | | | | | | |91°. At 4 | | | | | | | | |P.M., in the | | | | | | | | |forest, 66°. | | | | | | | | |Night very | | | | | | | | |pleasant. | | | | | | | | | | | |{ 53 | 63 50| 55 66}| | | |Cloud at 8 | | |{ | | }| | | |A.M. On Mount | | |{ | | }| | | |Helen, Therm. | | |{ | | }| N. & | | |at 8·30 A.M., | |24|{ | | }| N.E. | | |57° 5′-58° | | |{ | | }|Strong. | | |5′, a few | | |{ | | }| | | |feet below. | | |{ | | }| | | |At 11 A.M., | | |{ | | }| | | |in camp, | | |{ 53 25| 60 75| 55 66}| | | |Therm. 66°. | | | | | | | | | | | |{ 50 50| 61 | 53 50}| | | | | | |{ | | }| | | | | |25|{ | | }| | | |Very fine day.| | |{ | | }| | | | | | |{ 51 50| 60 25| 55 50}| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |{ 50 | | 54 }| | | |At 2 P.M. | | |{ | | }| | | |very thick | |26|{ | | }| N.E. & | | |mist from W. | | |{ | | }| | | |like rain. | | |{ 52 | | 55 }| | | |Carried off | | |{ | | }| | | |by N.E. wind. | | | | | | | | | | | |{ 48 | 66 50| 54 }| | | |At 5·30 A.M. | | |{ | | }| | | |Therm. 48°, | |27|{ | | }| N.E. | | |very little | | |{ | | }| | | |dew. On Mount | | |{ 48 50| 66 75| 54 75}| | | |Isabel at 5 | | |{ | | }| | | |P.M., 40°. | | | | | | | | | | | |{ 49 50| 61 50| 52 }| | | |At 3 P.M. | | |{ | | }| | | |few drops of | | |{ | | }| | | |rain. Wet and | |28|{ | | }| N.E. & | | |misty day. At | | |{ | | }| | | |night Venus | | |{ | | }| | | |veiled. Cold | | |{ 49 50| 60 50| 53 50}| | | |night. | | | | | | | | | | | |{ 50 50| 60 | 53 }| | | |Misty morn | | |{ | | }| | | |and day. | | |{ | | }| | | |Threatened | | |{ | | }| | | |rain, none | | |{ | | }| | | |came. Loud | |29|{ | | }| Do. |64 |49 |thunder at | | |{ | | }| | | |night from W. | | |{ | | }| | | |and S., but | | |{ | | }| | | |below gusts | | |{ | | }| | | |of wind. Cold | | |{ 50 50| 60 | 54 }| | | |at times. | | | | | | | | | | | |{ 50 75| | 56 50}| | | |Cold, raw | | |{ | | }| | | |morning, 54° | | |{ | | }| | | |at 8 A.M. Raw | | |{ | | }| | | |and misty | | |{ | | }| | | |till noon, | |30|{ | | }| N., W. |63 50|49 75|then hot sun. | | |{ | | }| & E. | | |Heavy cloud | | |{ | | }| | | |in W.; kind | | |{ | | }| | | |of Harmattan | | |{ | | }| | | |day. Wind | | |{ | | }| | | |from all | | |{ | | }| | | |quarters. | | |{ 51 | | 56 50}| | | |Clouds torn | | | | | | | | |to pieces. | | | | | | | | | | | |{ 49 | 60 | 57 50}| | | | | | |{ | | }| | | |Very cold | |31|{ | | }| E.S. & |61 |49 75|wind all | | |{ | | }| S.W. | | |night. | | |{ 49 75| 60 | 58 50}| | | | | | | | | | | | | | |Jan. 62. | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |{ 49 50| | 58 25}| | | | | | |{ | | }| | | |Cold morning. | | 1|{ | | }| N.E. & |66 50|49 75|Normal day. | | |{ | | }| S.W. | | |Misty day. | | |{ 50 50| | 58 75}| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |{ 52 | 60 75| 56 25}| | | |Thunder in | | |{ | | }| | | |morn. Day | | |{ | | }| | | |cool, misty | | 2|{ | | }| S.W. & | |52 |and still. | | |{ | | }| N.E. | | |Even. fine, | | |{ | | }| | | |warm, and | | |{ 52 75| 60 75| 56 25}| | | |windless.[153]| | | | | | | | | | | 3| 49 | 61 | 54 | Do. | | |Hazy morn. | | | | | | | | |Dry hazy | | | | | | | | |noon. At 2 | | | | | | | | |P.M. misty, | | | | | | | | |and a few | | | | | | | | |drops of | | | | | | | | |rain. Warm | | | | | | | | |and clear at | | | | | | | | |3 P.M. Misty | | | | | | | | |even. This | | | | | | | | |and the next | | | | | | | | |day’s obs. | | | | | | | | |are with 1064 | | | | | | | | |Therm. placed | | | | | | | | |in sun. | | | | | | | | | | | | | 1 P.M. | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | 4| 48 50| 66 | 55 25 | Do. | | |Misty morn. | | | | | | | | |and even. | | | | | | | | |Clear noon. | | | | | | | | | | | |{ 47 | | 57 }| Do. | | |Cool, clear | | |{ | | }| | | |morn. Day | | |{ | | }| | | |misty. Fine | | 5|{ | | }| | | |and windless | | |{ | | }| | | |evening. At | | |{ | | }| | | |3·40 P.M. | | |{ | | }| | | |little rain | | |{ 47 | | 57 }| | | |from W. | | | | | | | | | | | |{ 49 | 64 | 55 50}| | | | | | |{ | | }| | | | | | 6|{ | | }| Do. |72 5|45 |Fine, clear | | |{ | | }| | | |day. | | |{ 49 | 63 | 55 }| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |{ 48 | 70 | 54 }| | | |Day changing. | | |{ | | }| | | |Sun and mist | | |{ | | }| | | |alternately. | | 7|{ | | }| Do. | | |Clouds heavy | | |{ | | }| | | |in W. From | | |{ | | }| | | |3 P.M. till | | |{ | | }| | | |night clear | | |{ 51 75| 64 75| 53 50}| | | |and light. | | | | | | | | |Night cold. | | | | | | | | | | | |{ 50 | 83 | 58 }| | | |Fine clear | | |{ | | }| | | |morn. Raw | | 8|{ | | }| Do. | | |cloudy day. | | |{ | | }| | | |In afternoon | | |{ 51 | 68 25| 56 50}| | | |hot sun. | | |{ | | }| | | |Beautiful | | |{ | | }| | | |even. | | | | | | | | | | | |{ 50 50| 59 25| 55 }| | | |Clear morn. | | |{ | | }| | | |Heavy mist. | | |{ | | }| | | |At 11 A.M. | | 9|{ | | }| Do. | | |few drops of | | |{ | | }| | | |rain (2nd | | |{ | | }| | | |time). Raw | | |{ 50 | 58 75| 55 50}| | | |and cold. | | |{ | | }| | | |Weather seems | | |{ | | }| | | |breaking. | | | | | | | | | | | |{ 49 74| | 55 25}| | | |At 5·30 A.M. | | |{ | | }| | | |47°. Heavy | | |{ | | }| | | |thunder and | | |{ | | }| | | |lightning at | | |{ | | }| | | |night almost | |10|{ | | }| Do. | |41 |overhead. | | |{ | | }| | | |Morn. clear. | | |{ | | }| | | |Mist at 10. | | |{ | | }| | | |All night | | |{ | | }| | | |thunder and | | |{ 50 68| | 55 50}| | | |clouds from | | |{ | | }| | | |S.W. came | | |{ | | }| | | |overhead. | | | | | | | | | | | | 5·30 A.M.| |6·30 P.M. | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |11| 47 | 58 | 52 |No wind.| | |Morn. cool | | | | | | | | |and clear. | | | | | | | | |Mist at 10 | | | | | | | | |A.M. Thunder | | | | | | | | |and lightning | | | | | | | | |in S.W. At | | | | | | | | |4 P.M. mild | | | | | | | | |and pleasant. | | | | | | | | |Cold night. | | | | | | | | |Therm. 1064. | | | | | | | | | | | |{ 47 | 68 | 55 }| | | |Very fine | | |{ | | }| | | |still morn. | | |{ | | }| | | |Thunder | | |{ | | }| Land- | | |below. Cold | |12|{ | | }| breeze | | |mists at 10 | | |{ | | }| N.E. | | |A.M. till 3 | | |{ | | }| | | |P.M.; warmer | | |{ | | }| | | |after noon. | | |{ 47 50| 61 | 55 50}| | | |Cold, clear | | |{ | | }| | | |night. | | | | | | | | | | | |{ 49 | 57 75| 54 }| | | |Splendid | | |{ | | }| | | |morning. | | |{ | | }| | | |Cool, clear, | |13|{ | | }| N.E. & | | |and still. | | |{ | | }| S.W. | | |Raw mist 11 | | |{ | | }| | | |A.M. to 2 | | |{ 47 | 57 25| 54 50}| | | |P.M. Still | | |{ | | }| | | |warm even. | | | | | | | | | | | |{ 49 | 68 | 54 25}| | | |Morn hazy and | | |{ | | }| | | |still. Mist | | |{ | | }| | | |10 A.M. to 4 | |14|{ | | }| Do. | | |P.M. At noon | | |{ | | }| | | |few drops of | | |{ | | }| | | |rain. Fine | | |{ 51 50| 65 50| 54 75}| | | |clear even. | | |{ | | }| | | |Bright stars. | | | | | | | | | | | |{ 48 | 64 | 56 50}| | | |N. wind about | | |{ | | }| | | |dawn; W. till | | |{ | | }| | | |10 A.M., | | |{ | | }| | | |then S.E. | | |{ | | }| | | |sea-breeze. | |15|{ | | }| N.W. & | | |Meridian obs. | | |{ | | }| S.W. | | |taken at 1 | | |{ | | }| | | |P.M. Mist | | |{ | | }| | | |condensed by | | |{ | | }| | | |cold. Dull, | | |{ | | }| | | |but still | | |{ 50 | 61 50| 57 }| | | |even. Cold | | |{ | | }| | | |night; gusty | | |{ | | }| | | |near morn. | | | | | | | | | | | |{ 51 50| 62 | 56 }| | | |Misty day. | | |{ | | }| | | |Very calm in | |16|{ | | }| N.E. & | | |even. Fine | | |{ | | }| S.W. | | |night. Clear | | |{ | | }| | | |moon. Heavy | | |{ 53 | 61 | 56 }| | | |dew. | | | | | | | | | | | | 5 A.M. |1·30 P.M.| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |{ 49 | 59? 50| 52 75}| | | |Thunder in | | |{ | | }| | | |morn. Dull, | | |{ | | }| | | |misty day. | |17|{ | | }| Do. | | |In even. | | |{ | | }| | | |clouds. Stars | | |{ | | }| | | |obscured. | | |{ 50 | 58 50| 53 75}| | | |Meridian obs. | | |{ | | }| | | |at 1·30 P.M. | | | | | | | | | | | |{ 49 25| 70 50| 55 }| | | |Morn. Thun., | | |{ | | }| | | |dry and fine. | | |{ | | }| | | |Wind S.W. at | | |{ | | }| | | |8 A.M. Fine | |18|{ | | }| Do. | | |clear view of | | |{ | | }| | | |sea at 5·45 | | |{ | | }| | | |P.M. Leaves | | |{ | | }| | | |falling. | | |{ 50 | 65 75| 55 50}| | | |Swarms of | | |{ | | }| | | |swifts. Hawks | | |{ | | }| | | |cry at night. | | | | | | | | | | | | 5 A.M. |1·30 P.M.| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |{ 51 50| 75 | 55 50}| | | |First heavy | | |{ | | }| all | | |storm. See | |19|{ | | }| round | | |diary. | | |{ | | }|compass.| | |Meridional | | |{ | | }| | | |observation | | |{ 52 75| 66 50| 55 50}| | | |at 1·30 P.M. | | | | | | | | | | | |{ 50 | 67 50| 59 50}| | | |Fine clear | | |{ | | }| | | |morn. Ditto | | |{ | | }| | | |day. Sharp | | |{ | | }| | | |cold S.E. | |20|{ | | }| S.E. | | |wind till | | |{ | | }| | | |night. At 4 | | |{ | | }| | | |P.M. hot sun. | | |{ | | }| | | |Little mist. | | |{ | | }| | | |Clear moon. | | |{ 51 | 70 75| 58 50}| | | |Bees swarming | | |{ | | }| | | |from east to | | |{ | | }| | | |west. | | | | | | | | | | | | 7 A.M. | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |{ 51 | 66 50| 53 }| | | |Morn. obs. at | | |{ | | }| | | |7 A.M. Fine, | | |{ | | }| | | |clear. Wind | | |{ | | }| | | |less. Italian | | |{ | | }| | | |weather. At 7 | | |{ | | }| | | |A.M. thunder | |21|{ | | }| N.E. & | | |from N.W. At | | |{ | | }| S.W. | | |10 A.M. very | | |{ | | }| | | |heavy mist. 2 | | |{ | | }| | | |P.M. distant | | |{ | | }| | | |thunder clap | | |{ | | }| | | |from N.W. | | |{ 52 | 65 50| 53 50}| | | |At 3 P.M. | | |{ | | }| | | |few drops | | |{ | | }| | | |of rain. | | |{ | | }| | | |Clearer in | | |{ | | }| | | |even. Night | | |{ | | }| | | |thunder from | | |{ | | }| | | |W. by N.W. | | |{ | | }| | | |Bees still | | |{ | | }| | | |swarming. | | | | | | | | | | | |{ 50 50| 52 50| 54 }| | | |Bad thunder | | |{ | | }| | | |storm. See | |22|{ | | }| N.E. | | |diary. | | |{ | | }| etc. | | |Snow seen | | |{ 52 | 52 50| 54 }| | | |from below | | |{ | | }| | | |mountains. | | | | | | | | | | | | 5 A.M. |45m. P.M.| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |{ 50 50| 59 53| 50 }| | | |Morn. obs. | | |{ | | }| | | |at 5 A.M. | | |{ | | }| | | |Fine, clear, | | |{ | | }| | | |and cold | | |{ | | }| | | |till 10 A.M. | | |{ | | }| | | |Then mist | |23|{ | | }| N.E. & | | |from every | | |{ | | }| S.W. | | |direction. | | |{ | | }| | | |Thunder | | |{ | | }| | | |westward, 3 | | |{ | | }| | | |P.M. Therm. | | |{ | | }| | | |on ground | | |{ 51 50| 58 54| }| | | |near Calvo | | |{ | | }| | | |Crater, in | | |{ | | }| | | |sun, 82°, | | |{ | | }| | | |when mist | | |{ | | }| | | |came over, | | |{ | | }| | | |74°. | | | | | | | | | | | | 4 A.M.| 2 P.M.| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |{ 50 | 65 | 55 }| | | |Morn. obs. 4 | | |{ | | }| | | |A.M. Noon, | | |{ | | }| | | |2 P.M. Dull | | |{ | | }| | | |morn. Little | | |{ | | }| | | |Camaroons | | |{ | | }| | | |clearly seen. | |24|{ | | }| E. | | |Heavy mist | | |{ | | }|strong. | | |from below. | | |{ | | }| | | |Cold, and | | |{ | | }| | | |hot sun. | | |{ | | }| | | |Threatened | | |{ 50 50| 62 25| 54 75}| | | |rain, but | | |{ | | }| | | |none fell. | | |{ | | }| | | |Calm even. | | |{ | | }| | | |Heavy thunder | | |{ | | }| | | |at night. | | | | | | | | | | | | | 30 P.M.| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |{ 48 | 72 | 53 75}| | | |Clear morn. | | | | | | | | |Misty day and | |25|{ | | }| N.E. & | | |even. Thunder | | | | | | S.W. | | |and lightning | | | | | | | | |below. Fine | | |{ 49 | 69 50| 54 }| | | |cool night. | | | | | | | | | | | | 5·30 A.M.| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |{ 49 | 65 | 53 50}| | | |Thunder all | | |{ | | }| | | |morn. Day | | |{ | | }| | | |misty and | |26|{ | | }| W. & | | |fine by | | |{ | | }| S.E. | | |turns. Clear | | |{ | | }| | | |even. Thunder | | |{ 49 | 62 50| 54 }| | | |and lightning | | |{ | | }| | | |at night. | | | | | | | | | | | | |2·30 P.M.| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |{ 48 50| 80 50| 43 }| | | |Slept on | | |{ | | }| | | |Mount Isabel. | | |{ | | }| | | |Morn. cold, | | |{ | | }| | | |dear. Mists | | |{ | | }| | | |at 10 A.M. | |27|{ | | }| Do. | | |Heavy clouds | | |{ | | }| | | |from E. | | |{ | | }| | | |At 4 P.M. | | |{ | | }| | | |therm. 45°. | | |{ | | }| | | |Rain-drops at | | |{ 49 50| 78 | 43 }| | | |2 P.M. Heavy | | |{ | | }| | | |dew. At 5·50 | | |{ | | }| | | |P.M. 45° and | | |{ | | }| | | |44°. | | | | | | | | | | | | | 11 A.M.| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |{ 39 75| 51 50| 41 50}| | | |Morn. and | | |{ | | }| | | |even. obs. | | |{ | | }| | | |in Isabel | | |{ | | }| | | |and Saker’s | | |{ | | }| | | |Camp. Noon | |28|{ | | }| Do. | | |on mountain. | | |{ | | }| | | |Dull red | | |{ | | }| | | |morn. Cold, | | |{ | | }| | | |and few | | |{ 40 | 51 50| 41 50}| | | |clouds at | | |{ | | }| | | |sunrise. | | |{ | | }| | | |Slept at | | |{ | | }| | | |Saker’s Camp. | | | | | | | | | | | |{ 39 | 80 | 42 }| | | |Hoar frost | | |{ | | }| | | |in morn. At | | |{ | | }| | | |2 A.M. 37°. | |29|{ | | }| Do. | | |Grey and | | |{ | | }| | | |cold. Sun | | |{ | | }| | | |not visible | | |{ 39 | 60 | 42 }| | | |till high | | |{ | | }| | | |up. Slept at | | |{ | | }| | | |Saker’s Camp. | | | | | | | | | | | |{ 36 | | }| | | |Hoar frost on | | |{ | | }| | | |clothes. At 2 | | |{ | | }| | | |A.M. 32° 50′. | | |{ | | }| | | |Bad thunder | | |{ | | }| | | |from S.W. A | | |{ | | }| | | |vile day, | | |{ | | }| | | |with rain | | |{ | | }| | | |and hail. | |30|{ | | }| Do. | | |Descended | | |{ | | }| | | |to Mann’s | | |{ | | }| | | |Spring. | | |{ | | }| | | |See diary. | | |{ | | }| | | |New moon, | | |{ | | }| | | |bad omen. | | |{ | | }| | | |M. Mann’s | | |{ 36 | | }| | | |maximum | | |{ | | }| | | |on summit | | |{ | | }| | | |of Albert | | |{ | | }| | | |Crater, 55°., | | |{ | | }| | | |minimum 27°. | | |{ | | }| | | |At time of | | |{ | | }| | | |inspection | | | | | | | | |35°. | | | | | | | | | | | |{ 52 | 75 | 57 }| | | |Left Mann’s | | |{ | | }| | | |Spring, and | | |{ | | }| | | |began the | |31|{ | | }| Do. | | |descent. At | | |{ | | }| | | |sunrise next | | |{ | | }| | | |morning, | | |{ 53 | 67 | 58 }| | | |therm. 46°. | | | | I then left the mountain, and soon found myself in an atmosphere | | of 80° F. | | | |M. MANN. | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |Feb. 62. | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |{ 49 | | 56 50}| | | |Clear in | | |{ | | }| | | |morn. and | | 1|{ | | }| N.E. | | |noon. Even. | | |{ | | }| | | |very strong | | |{ 50 5| | 57 50}| | | |wind. Max. | | | | | | | | |71°. Min. 50°.| | | | | | | | | | | |{ 48 | | 56 }| | | |Morn. clear | | |{ | | }| | | |and still. | | |{ | | }| | | |8 A.M. | | |{ | | }| | | |wind rose. | | 2|{ | | }| Do. | | |Thunder. | | |{ | | }| | | |Clear | | |{ | | }| | | |afternoon. | | |{ 49 75| | 57 }| | | |Max. 71°. | | |{ | | | | | |Min. 48°. | | | | | | | | | | | |{ 51 50| | 55 }| | | | | | |{ | | }| | | |Cloudy and | | 3|{ | | }| Do. | | |warm. Max. | | |{ | | }| | | |71°. Min. 50°.| | |{ 53 | | 56 25}| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |{ 50 | | 52 }| | | |Wind light. | | |{ | | }| | | |Sunny and | | 4|{ | | }| Do. | | |cloudy by | | |{ | | }| | | |turns. Max. | | |{ 52 | | 54 }| | | |69°. Min. 49°.| | | | | | | | | | | |{ 51 | | 53 }| | | |Calm. Morn. | | |{ | | }| | | |and even. | | 5|{ | | }| Do. | | |clear. Cloudy | | |{ | | }| | | |at midday. | | |{ 52 | | 54 }| | | |Max. 66°. | | |{ | | }| | | |Min. 48°. | | | | | | | | | | | |{ 52 | 68 | 54 }| |68 50|48 |Wind light. | | |{ | | }| | | |Distant | | 6|{ | | }| Do. | | |thunder from | | |{ | | }| | | |sea. Cloudy | | |{ 53 | 65 | 54 50}| | | |and sunny day | | |{ | | }| | | |by turns. | | | | | | | | | | | |{ 49 | 84 | 52 50}| |63 50|49 | | | |{ | | }| | | |Wind light. | | 7|{ | | }| Do. | | |Sunny and | | |{ | | }| | | |cloudy by | | |{ 50 | 72 75| 54 25}| | | |turns. | | | | | | | | | | | | | 1 P.M. | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |{ 50 50| 61 50| 51 50}| | | |Morn. clear | | |{ | | }| | | |and calm. Day | | 8|{ | | }| Do. |63 50|49 |and even. | | |{ | | }| | | |cloudy. | | |{ 52 50| 60 | 53 }| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |{ 52 | 69 | 58 25}| | | | | | |{ | | }| | | | | | 9|{ | | }| Do. |68 |48 |Strong wind. | | |{ | | }| | | |Cloudy. | | |{ 52 50| 68 50| 59 25}| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |{ 50 50| 73 50| 59 }| | | |Sunny and | | |{ | | }| | | |warm. Very | | |{ | | }| | | |pleasant. | |10|{ | | }| Do. |72 50|51 |Even. clear. | | |{ | | }| | | |Thunderstorm | | |{ | | }| | | |and rain at | | |{ 52 50| 85 | 58 50}| | | |night. | | | | | | | | | | | |{ 51 | 59 50| 54 50}| | | |Foggy till | | |{ | | }| | | |3·0 P.M. Then | |11|{ | | }| N.E. |67 75|49 |two hours | | |{ | | }| | | |sun. After | | |{ 52 25| 60 | 55 50}| | | |5 P.M. sky | | |{ | | }| | | |covered. | | | | | | | | | | | |{ 52 | 62 | 52 50}| | | |Rain and calm | | |{ | | }| | | |in morn. | |12|{ | | }| Do. |64 |90 |Clear and | | |{ | | }| | | |calm day. | | |{ 52 50| 62 | 53 50}| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |{ 51 | | }| | | |Clear morn. | | |{ | | }| | | |Calm and | |13|{ | | }| Do. | |48 50|covered sky | | |{ | | }| | | |in day. | | |{ 52 50| | }| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |{ | 64 | 60 }| | | |M. Mann | | |{ | | }| | | |travelled to | | |{ | | }| | | |Ridge Camp | |14|{ | | }| all |69 | |this day. At | | |{ | | }| round. | | |5 A.M. heavy | | |{ | | }| | | |tornado. | | |{ | 64 50| 60 50}| | | |Cloudy and | | |{ | | }| | | |rainy day. | | | | | | | | | | | |{ 63 25| 67 | 65 50}| | | | | | |{ | | }| | | |Cloudy day. | |15|{ | | }| Do. |69 |60 |Dry at Ridge | | |{ | | }| | | |Camp. | | |{ 64 | 67 50| 66 50}| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |{ 64 | 66 | 62 50}| | | | | | |{ | | }| | | | | |16|{ | | }| Do. |67 50|63 50|Ridge Camp. | | |{ | | }| | | |Rain all day. | | |{ 64 50| 66 75| 63 }| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |{ 63 | 67 | 67 }| | | | | | |{ | | }| | | | | |17|{ | | }| Do. |71 50|61 |Day warm and | | |{ | | }| | | |sunny. | | |{ 63 | 69 50| 67 50}| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |{ 64 | | 80 }| | |63 |Descended to | | |{ | | }| | | |Victoria, | |18|{ | | }| Sea- | | |where even. | | |{ | | }|breeze. | | |obs. taken. | | |{ 64 | | 81 50}| | |R.C. |Day sunny and | | | | | | | | |warm. | | | | | | | | | | | |{ 73 50| 75 | 73 }| | | | | | |{ | | }| Sea- | | | | |19|{ | | }| breeze |78 50|70 50|Rainy day. | | |{ | | }|(strong)| | | | | |{ 74 25| 75 50| 74 50}| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |{ 66 | 88 50| 78 50}| | | | | | |{ | | }| | | |Day sunny and | |20|{ | | }| Do. |87 |67 |cloudy. Warm | | |{ | | }| | | |and dry. | | |{ 67 50| 87 | 80 }| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |30m. P.M.| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |{ 69 | 100 | 81 }| | | 50| | | |{ | | }| Sea- | | | | |21|{ | | }| breeze |90 |69 |Sunny and | | |{ | | }|strong. | | |warm. | | |{ 70 | 90 | 82 }| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |{ 73 | 95 | 79 }| | | | | | |{ | | }| | | |Morn. sunny. | |22|{ | | }| Do. |88 50|72 |Afternoon | | |{ | | }| | | |cloudy. | | |{ 73 | 85 25| 79 50}| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |{ 70 75| 100 | 80 }| | | |Day warm | | |{ | | }| | | |and sunny. | |23|{ | | }| Do. |90 |71 |Thunder in | | |{ | | }| | | |the mountains | | |{ 71 75| 86 50| 81 }| | | |at noon. | | |{ | | }| | | |Cloudy for | | |{ | | }| | | |1h. 30m. | | | | | | | | | | |24| 74 50| | | | |73 |M. Mann left | | | | | | | | |Victoria on | | | | | | | | |his way to | | | | | | | | |Camaroons. | +--+----------+---------+----------+--------+-----+-----+--------------+
[Footnote 152: Our camp below Earthwork Crater was in a thorough draught, the top of the forest conducting the wind. The prevalent were the N.E., which is almost constant in the upper regions, and is in fact the land-breeze rushing from the cold hills to the sea. During the day we had S.W. or sea-breezes, which brought up clouds.]
[Footnote 153: M. Mann left on Jan. 2nd for the crater, taking his maximum and minimum thermometers. He returned the 4th Jan., and on the 10th Jan. he left for Victoria, returning on the 25th Jan.]
APPENDIX VII.
* * * * *
HYPSOMETRICAL TABLE OF STATIONS BETWEEN VICTORIA BAY AND CAMAROONS MOUNTAINS.
M. MANN’S instrument is a B. P. (Fah.) by Negretti and Zambra (no number). At sea-level, before starting, his readings were:—
212° ·4 } } „ ·5 } } „ ·4 } Temperature 77° (Fah.). } „ ·3 } } „ ·3 }
The mean was assumed at 212°·4.
In the evening a series of five readings gave a mean of 212°·3. Temp. 88°·50 (Fah.).
On return to Victoria Bay (Feb. 23rd) five readings gave a mean of 212°·1. Temp. 82°·50 (Fah.).
The medium of M. Mann’s instrument was therefore assumed at 212° + ·3. The observations were corrected accordingly, and have been marked (M).
Mr. Saker had a French aneroid. I, one by Messrs. Cary, Strand, London, an expensive and most carelessly made article, whose hand could not even be screwed round for correction.
My B. P. was the zeometer, a new hypsometric apparatus made by Messrs. Casella, of 23 Hatton Garden, London. It answered tolerably, but, as has appeared, the cup was injured during the descent of the mountain on the 27th Dec. 1861, after which the glass tube was used in the ordinary way. Its observations are marked (B).
The average temperature has been assumed at 78°·5, and the calculations have been made by Mr. George, of the Royal Geographical Society.
OBSERVATIONS.
-------+---------------------------+---------------------+------------ Date. | Station. | Observation. | Altitude. -------+---------------------------+---------------------+------------ 1861 | | | | | | Dec. 14|Bosumbo | 210°·1 (M). Temp. |1055 feet. | |71°. Mean of two Obs.| | | | Dec. 19|Bosumbo |29°·6 Aneroid. Temp. | | | 78°. | | | | Dec. 15|Mapanya |28°·2 Aneroid. Temp. | | | 79°. | | | | Dec. 15|Mapanya | 207°·3 (M). Temp. |2610 „ | | 66°. Morn. | | | | Dec. 15|Mapanya | 207°·2 (M). Temp. |2683 „ | | 73°. Even. | | | | Dec. 21|Ridge Camp |27°·2 Aneroid. Temp. | | | 68°. | | | | 1862 | | | | | | Feb. 1 |Fern Gate |204° (B). Temp. 80°. |4535 „ | | | 1861 | | | | | | Dec. 23|Black Crater |199° (M). Temp. 63°. |7328 „ | | | Dec. 24|Mann’s Spring | 198°·7 (M). Temp. |7466 „ | | 58°. | | | | Dec. 24|Mann’s Spring | 199°·2 (M). Temp. |7221 „ | | 63°. | | | | Dec. 25|Mann’s Spring |200° (B). Temp. 65°. |6762 „ | | | 1862 | | | | | | Jan. 27|Foot of Mount Helen |198° (B). Temp. 66°. |7932 „ | | | 1861 | | | | | | Dec. 24|Top of Mount Helen | 195°·7 (M). Mean |9223 „ | | of five Obs. Temp. | | | 58°·50. | | | | Dec. 24|Top of Mount Helen | 195°·4 (B). Temp. |9383 „ | | 57°. | | | | Dec. 27|Below Earthwork Crater | 24°·15 Aneroid. |Not worth | | |calculating. | | | Dec. 27|Above Earthwork Crater . | 23°·850 Aneroid. |Ditto. | | | 1862 | | | | | | Jan. 28|Crater of Mount Isabel | 193°·9 (M). Mean of |10,187 „ | |five Read. Temp. 50°.| | | | Jan. 28|Summit of Mount Isabel | 193°·4 (B). Temp. |10,590 „ | | 60°. | | | | Jan. 28|Camp Saker |193° (B). Temp. 48°. |10,595 „ | | | Jan. 28|Foot of Victoria Mountain | 193°·5 (B). Temp. |10,530 „ | | 60°. | | | | Jan. 30|Foot of Mount Hooker | 192°·7 (M). Temp. |10,875 „ | | 48°. | | | | Jan. 30|Summit of Mount Hooker | 191°·2 (M). Temp. |11,725 „ | | 45°. | | | | Jan. 14|Victoria Crater |188°. Temp. 58° Obs. |13,806 „ | | by Mr. Saker. | | | | Jan. 30|Summit of Victoria Mountain| 189°·7 (B). Temp. |12,696 „ | | 51°. | | | | Jan. 29|Summit of Albert Crater | 189°·5 (B). Temp. |12,948 „ | | 62°. | | | | Jan. 29|Highest Point of Albert | 189°·2 (B). Temp. |13,129 „ |Mountain | 62°. | -------+---------------------------+---------------------+------------
In assuming 78°·50 (Fah.) as the mean temperature at sea-level, I have been obliged, for want of other comparison, to adopt the mean of M. Mann’s observations.
Before leaving Victoria Bay, he made, between the 6th and 12th of December, 1861, a series of thirteen maximum and minimum observations, whose mean is 79°.
After returning to Victoria Bay, he made five maximum and six minimum observations between the 19th and the 24th February, and their mean is 78°.
My friend Major Noeli, of the Spanish artillery, supplied me at Fernando Po with the following table. It will be seen that the mean of December, January, and February, 1859-60, are also 78°·50 (Fah.).
OBSERVATIONS OF TEMPERATURE BY MAJOR NOELI, H.C.M.’S ARMY, AT FERNANDO PO, 1859-1860.
Observations taken at 6 a.m., 8 a.m., 10 a.m., noon when possible, 3 p.m., 10 p.m.
Place:—Room facing N.E., and about 100 feet above sea-level.
----------+-----------------+----------+------------------------------ | Thermometer. |Barometer.| Date. +----+-----+------+----------+ Remarks. |Max.|Min. |Mean. | Mean. | ----------+----+-----+------+----------+------------------------------ Sep. 1859.|81·0|69·0 |75·44 | 29·66 |Only taken during last half | | | | |month. Twelve days’ heavy | | | | |rain. Frequent fresh breezes | | | | |when there was no rain. | | | | | Oct. „ |83·5|70·0 |76·40 | 29·65 |Nine days’ rain. Sea-breezes | | | | |when no rain. | | | | | Nov. „ |85·0|70·0 |78·05 | 29·61 |Sixteen days’ rain (less | | | | |copious and shorter), chiefly | | | | |in early morn. Five mild | | | | |tornados. Frequent breezes. | | | | | Dec. „ |86·0|69·0 |78·90 | 29·59 |9 A.M. 26th. Tornado and | | | | |rain. Another rainy day, fine | | | | |drops. Frequent breezes. | | | | | Jan. 1860.|86·5|67·5 |77·87 | 29·59 |One rainy day. Frequent | | | | |breezes. Harmattan. Great | | | | |heat on calm days. | | | | | Feb. „ |88·0|69·0 |78·73 | 29·54 |One day’s rain. Various | | | | |tornados. Sometimes no | | | | |sea-breeze till 3 P.M. Great | | | | |heat. Therm. 88° only one day. ----------+----+-----+------+----------+ Mean of 6 |85° |69°·1|77°·56| 29·612 | months. | | | | | ----------+----+-----+------+----------+------------------------------
At Fernando Po the barometric wave is at its highest at 9·10 a.m. and 9·10 p.m., and at its lowest at 3·4 a.m. and 3·4 p.m.
THE END.
LONDON. PRINTED BY W. CLOWES AND SONS, STAMFORD STREET AND CHARING CROSS.
Transcriber's note:
Page v, in Contents changed: "[Appendix] V." to: "IV.", and inserted "V. REPORTS AND LETTERS TOUCHING AMBAS BAY — 286"
Page 38, Changed: "to Dr. Baikei’s Niger expedition" to: "Baikie’s"
Page 46, Changed: "supplies from the mainand" to: "mainland"
Page 77, Changed: "_Mormida lucida Benthami_" to: "_Morinda_"
Page 82, Changed: "attire of the Fernadian Bube" to: "Fernandian"
Page 83, Changed: "a form now well-nigh obselete" to: "obsolete"
Page 89, Changed: "were ascepiadæ, gardeniaceæ" to: "asclepiadæ"
Page 139, Changed: "along a crater brenched on the S.E. side" to: "breached"
Page 239, Changed: "it was usless for me to speak" to: "useless"
Page 257, Changed: "a rule or law, called Diburnbe" to: "Dibumbe"
Page 270, Changed: "Sagnia Abyssinica, Hochst." to: "Sagina"
Page 271, Changed: "Senicula Europæa, L." to: "Sanicula"
Page 272, Changed: "[Lactuca] glanduligera, n. sp." to: "glandulifera"
Page 272, Changed: "Anisoraniphus hyperhæroides" to: "Anisoramphus hypochæroides"
Page 275, Changed: "[Carex] Echnochlœ, Kunth." to: "Echinochlœ"
Page 277, Changed: "Selagenella" to: "Selaginella"